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Post by Leftee on Jan 14, 2020 12:54:30 GMT -5
I know you did a build with a Padouk neck recently.
It doesn’t need to be finished. Did you apply finish to yours? I have a Padouk build in work, now and I’m looking for advice.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Jan 14, 2020 13:52:26 GMT -5
"Don't look at me! Don't you effin' look at me!" xoxo, Frank Booth Padauk is a hard, brittle wood that is oily, similar to rosewood, so it protects itself from within. It doesn't need a finish. I didn't apply a finish to the padauk neck mostly because I like the feel of bare wood. Sort of like the difference between a varnished axe handle and one that is well-used and feels like wood instead of plastic. There is a very good reason to apply a finish, however--and that is to help the wood retain its color. Most padauks are a rich dark red to milk-chocolatey brown and uniform in color when first cut and sanded; some have contrasting grain with reds and light tans, and some even lean toward dark violet. Leaving these unfinished allows the wood to oxidize and become duller/darker in color. On colored/figured woods like this, the sooner you get finish on it after cutting/sanding, the better it will retain its color. If you apply a penetrating oil or wiping varnish such as Danish oil, have at it as soon as it's sanded smooth. If you're applying a hard clear coat (nitro, poly, Tru Oil, etc.), it's good practice to wipe the surface first with a lint-free cloth dampened with acetone to remove oil from the surface layer, and then shoot finish as soon as it evaporates. This ensures a good bond between the finish and the wood. Skip this step and you risk getting milky/hazy patches where air gets between the wood and loose finish.
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Post by Leftee on Jan 14, 2020 14:10:05 GMT -5
Thanks!
The neck shaft is Padouk as is the body cap. I think I might try the Danish Oil, this time.
The neck is purdee. The body will be here Thurs. 😎
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Jan 14, 2020 14:45:29 GMT -5
Cool! Looking forward to pics of the project!
If you've never used Danish oil, here's how.
Cut open a cardboard box and lay it flat to provide a work surface and protect the benchtop. Put on a pair of painter's gloves. Pour some Danish Oil into a rag and rub it into the wood. Wipe all surfaces and let it sit for no longer than about 20 minutes. Pick it up and wipe it completely dry, and hang it up to dry for a few hours in front of a fan to keep air moving over it and speed the process. Repeat this four or five times. Danish oil does not leave a hard surfaces finish.
The 'wipe completely dry' step prevents shiny/sticky areas from forming on the surface.
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Post by Leftee on Jan 14, 2020 14:59:28 GMT -5
Thanks!
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Jan 15, 2020 9:39:34 GMT -5
If I ever do another build I'm thinking Padouk or Bloodwood will be in order. I think Bloodwood maintains its red hue while Padouk oxidizes and turns brown over time, no?
Definitely post up some pics Leftee.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Jan 15, 2020 11:23:36 GMT -5
Take a deep breath...this is pretty shocking. I've used bloodwood in bowls and other small pieces, and it darkens over time. All woods darken over time even with finish on the surface. Finish slows the fade process because it seals out air, but UV also takes its toll. Some woods darken really slowly and others are pretty fast. The bright colors go first. Here's bloodwood in a bowl. It was bright red when I sprayed lacquer on this two years ago, and it has mellowed to a really dark red. You can see how even the maple has darkened and the yellowheart no longer pops. The walnut, pecan, padauk, and black palm show no color change. This bowl has been on a shelf for two years out of direct sunlight. So I guess the question is this: where do you draw the line on ROI? In other words, why buy mucho-dinero exotic woods if you can enjoy the color for only a year or so, after which it all blends together? Me--I think it's worth it, because I know it's in there and that's all that matters.
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Jan 15, 2020 11:40:48 GMT -5
Wow, Peegoo with top notch empirical evidence. Very cool. I'll have to look again but I thought I saw reference at Warmoth that Bloodwood retains it color. Liars!
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Post by Leftee on Jan 15, 2020 11:48:06 GMT -5
It bled out.
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Jan 15, 2020 11:51:25 GMT -5
I think Peegoo must have started with Bloodwood that was done medium well.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Jan 15, 2020 11:58:10 GMT -5
Could be!
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Post by Leftee on Jan 15, 2020 18:00:53 GMT -5
The body arrived today.
I took my lunch break and sanded both the body and the neck and started the Danish Oil process. This is going to be a stunning guitar in a natural wood sort of way.
I really should have ordered a chambered body, though. It’s heavy.
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Jan 15, 2020 18:09:43 GMT -5
What core wood did you go with? I was looking at Warmoth and pondering a future build, probably go roasted ash with a padouk cap, chambered and f hole.
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Post by Leftee on Jan 15, 2020 18:14:55 GMT -5
Alder
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Post by Leftee on Jan 15, 2020 18:56:27 GMT -5
Sneak peek!
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Jan 15, 2020 19:15:49 GMT -5
OhhhhhMAaaaannnn that looks shweet!
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Post by Leftee on Jan 15, 2020 19:33:33 GMT -5
Wait until you see the neck. It's rich.
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Jan 15, 2020 19:45:32 GMT -5
Garjus
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Jan 19, 2020 10:26:01 GMT -5
Tick TOCK!
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Post by Leftee on Jan 19, 2020 17:16:48 GMT -5
Waiting on a pot.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Jan 19, 2020 18:13:19 GMT -5
Tell them to poo or get off the pot!
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Post by Leftee on Jan 20, 2020 13:02:55 GMT -5
Here's a sneak peek - part II.
Alder body with Padouk cap. Padouk neck with Ebony fretboard - 24 3/4" scale. DiMarzio PAFs.
No stains were used on this guitar. All Danish oil (except the fretboard).
I call it the "Les Jazz."
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Jan 20, 2020 15:22:16 GMT -5
That is a beaut. Are you leaving the back as is?
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Post by Leftee on Jan 20, 2020 15:39:00 GMT -5
Yes, and if I had it to do over, I’d go chambered mahogany.
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Jan 20, 2020 16:33:28 GMT -5
If I go that route I would probably go chambered and roasted swamp ash.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Jan 20, 2020 16:42:39 GMT -5
That looks fantastic!
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Post by Leftee on Jan 20, 2020 16:44:56 GMT -5
Thanks!
It should be playable this weekend.
I really debated staining the alder. I do know it will darken a little on its own. But still. 🤔
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Jan 20, 2020 17:55:30 GMT -5
That actually has nice-looking grain for alder. Usually it's like poplar: fairly unremarkable and sometimes with unattractive grain. That's why Fender moved to alder for opaque-painted bodies. It was cheaper than prettier-grained ash.
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Post by Leftee on Jan 20, 2020 18:04:34 GMT -5
I’ve been impressed with all the alder pieces I’ve got from Warmoth.
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Post by LTB on Jan 22, 2020 22:33:20 GMT -5
Take a deep breath...this is pretty shocking. I've used bloodwood in bowls and other small pieces, and it darkens over time. All woods darken over time even with finish on the surface. Finish slows the fade process because it seals out air, but UV also takes its toll. Some woods darken really slowly and others are pretty fast. The bright colors go first. Here's bloodwood in a bowl. It was bright red when I sprayed lacquer on this two years ago, and it has mellowed to a really dark red. You can see how even the maple has darkened and the yellowheart no longer pops. The walnut, pecan, padauk, and black palm show no color change. This bowl has been on a shelf for two years out of direct sunlight. So I guess the question is this: where do you draw the line on ROI? In other words, why buy mucho-dinero exotic woods if you can enjoy the color for only a year or so, after which it all blends together? Me--I think it's worth it, because I know it's in there and that's all that matters. Very nice! Showed them to my wife. She loved them. It did surprise me the Bloodwood changed that much 2 years after spaying
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