|
|
Post by LM on Jan 20, 2020 19:30:03 GMT -5
Some say the speaker should be as close as possible to the amp wattage. Others say no more than double. Others say it doesn't matter. What say you?
|
|
|
|
Post by pcalu on Jan 20, 2020 20:28:07 GMT -5
I used to think and put into practice "as close as possible to the amp wattage" Over the years.. my ears say "it doesn't matter" and totally dependent on the amp and how the specific speaker works in the amp.
Just depends.
|
|
|
|
Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Jan 20, 2020 20:51:54 GMT -5
It helps to know the frequency response curve of the speaker. Here's a good example:
Years ago I wanted to upgrade the speaker in my PRRI (rated 15 watts RMS) so I called Weber and spoke with Ted (R.I.P). I told him what I wanted out of the speaker and that I was looking at their 10F125 (rated 25 watts). He advised me the 10F150--50 watts, same price--would sound better in the Princeton because it had a slightly pushed lower end. Being that it was going into a small open-back combo, that added bottom would help make the amp sound bigger than it was. I ordered one and installed it. I never A/B'd it with a 10F125, but compared to the stock Fender speaker that was originally in the amp, the 10F150 sounds huge.
|
|
|
|
Post by Leftee on Jan 20, 2020 21:01:07 GMT -5
Use what sounds good that doesn’t blow up is the basic premise to follow.
I stopped chasing the watt-dragon years ago. If it sounds good it is good.
|
|
|
|
Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Jan 20, 2020 21:14:09 GMT -5
One of the things I've learned is that all brand-name speakers are very conservatively rated.
In other words, they are rated somewhere in the range of 25-30 percent of their actual peak wattage capacity. Wattage numbers are amperes multiplied by volts (i X v) and are actually heat dissipation ratings--not voltage or current handling capacity.
A 30-watt speaker can safely be run by a 100-watt amp so long as you don't play the amp dimed.
|
|
|
|
Post by LM on Jan 20, 2020 21:18:47 GMT -5
Peegoo knows his PIE.  |
|
|
|
Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Jan 20, 2020 21:23:59 GMT -5
 Triangle Man, Triangle Man Triangle Man hates Particle Man They have a fight, Triangle wins Triangle Man! |
|
|
|
Post by LM on Jan 20, 2020 21:31:42 GMT -5
Ha! Clever!
I prefer circles... ![]()  |
|
|
|
Post by Leftee on Jan 20, 2020 22:14:42 GMT -5
🤓
|
|
Bbendfender
Wholenote
Mostly play Fender guitars and amps. I'm 71 and have had a guitar since 1964. Got serious in 1975.
Posts: 216
Age: 71
|
Post by Bbendfender on Jan 22, 2020 12:08:40 GMT -5
I'd bet you never dime your amp when you play. I'm pretty much in the same ballpark as everyone who has commented. As long as you don't overdrive any speaker, that speaker will work. A light weight speaker with a big Marshall probably won't be a good combination but a mid or high power 12 may be good with a big Marshall. That new Boss Katana amp of yours, Leftymeister, should do quite will with the speaker that came in it. But, I'd probably upgrade to a "better" speaker if it were mine. That's what I did with my old Peavey Pacer 100. The original speaker seemed to light for my tastes so I upgraded to a med. power Celestion and it did sound better.
|
|
Desoto
Quarternote
Posts: 31
Formerly Known As: Roger Ball
|
Post by Desoto on Jan 22, 2020 17:27:26 GMT -5
I think it matters but only from the point of view of installing a speaker (or speakers) in an amp that has an obviously higher output capability than the rated drivers, like a couple of 20W speakers in a Twin Reverb for example. Not a good idea.
I've used Weber speakers in amps that have a similar output as the speaker rating. No problem even under overdive conditions since I believe the speaker ratings are conservative. I have also used Eminence speakers that have a much larger rating than the amp and they sound great too.
|
|
|
|
Post by Leftee on Jan 22, 2020 17:46:02 GMT -5
It used to be the innerwebs common-knowledge (aka bull crap) that driving a low watt speaker produced desirable breakup.
Actually... when a speaker is overdriven/overextended, it sounds like the poo poo. The innerwebs can be misleading and stupid.
Go with what sounds great.
And tell me if you can use an 8 Ohm speaker. 😜
|
|
|
|
Post by LTB on Jan 22, 2020 20:39:30 GMT -5
Triangle Man, Triangle Man Triangle Man hates Particle Man They have a fight, Triangle wins Triangle Man! Peegoo's triangle is what we were all taught in electronics/electrical as it is easy to remember. If no need to remember for your job which I used OR if you just need it occasionally then Leftymeister's pie chart is very helpful.
Also, as far as speakers, I go with the one that exhibits the frequency range I want for Guitar or another for Bass can handle full wattage of the amp and has the highest sensitivity as the perceived volume per watt will be greater thus not needing to drive the amp at as high a wattage to get the sound I need.
Peegoo, Ted Weber was a great guy who knew his speakers inside and out and helped me to understand some of the stuff I wanted to know. Who else would have taken the time out of his probably busy day to answer your questions. No one lives forever but he was certainly missed after he passed away. |
|
|
|
Post by Jim D. on Jan 25, 2020 14:26:16 GMT -5
Ref: Peegoo's comment. It brought back memories as Ted gave me similar advice. Same with doping- none, light, etc. and application, such as open or closed back. They used to do a pre break in as well. I have not purchased a Weber speaker in a long time. I wonder if they have maintained their quality. Mine sound great.
|
|
twangmeister
Wholenote
Posts: 349
Formerly Known As: Twangmeister
Age: 72 and fading fast.....
|
Post by twangmeister on Jan 31, 2020 19:01:06 GMT -5
Matching wattage to an amp doesn't matter. Just don't go wild by using a low rated speaker in a high powered amp. My 22 watt Deluxe Reverb came with a Jensen C12K--100 watts and my Ramparte came with a 50 watt 12". The Ampeg SVT had 8 25 watt 10"s in a big cabinet. Just like my 800 watt Acoustic Image which has two 300 watt 10" neo speakers it doesn't pay to hammer them with super loud bass.
|
|
pdf64
Wholenote
Posts: 556
|
Post by pdf64 on Feb 5, 2020 5:16:31 GMT -5
LeftyMeister, that circle chart is excellent, when folks can get their head around those relationships it’s like having a key to open the door to understanding how all those things interact.
Yes, I was shown the VIR triangle at technical college too, wish it had been the circle.
Regarding the wattage thing, I’m not interested in a rig I can’t overdrive without worrying about something getting wrecked. Amps put out more than their rated power when overdriven, over the years I’ve learnt the hard way to measure that overdriven output power if the total speaker power rating isn’t at least twice that of the amp’s clean power rating.
eg I tried my 100 watt Eminence with my Fender 75, actual clean power output with modern 6L6GC or my tired Sylvania STR387s was only 60 watts. And my 60watt Celestion coped fine with it. But that Eminence died within a few minutes of using it with the Fender 75, and I wasn’t even pushing it that hard.
When tested on the bench afterwards, the Fender put out 115 watts when fully overdriven! I won’t be subjecting anything less than 120 watts to it in future.
|
|
