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Post by cedarchoper58 on Jan 20, 2020 19:47:17 GMT -5
do they affect the tone ?
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Jan 20, 2020 20:30:29 GMT -5
I've been using SS frets for more than 15 years and I say "not enough to make a player decide against them."
I notice no difference.
In fact, the positives outweigh the negatives (if any at all, really) because they remain glass smooth and they last virtually forever. I'm so convinced about this stuff that I had both my CS Fenders refretted with SS.
Anytime someone tells me they brighten the sound of a guitar, I remind them there's a tone control on there. Personally, I think those claims of added brightness are simply parroted opinions from guitar blogs, etc.
Try 'em and you'll never go back to conventional nickel alloy frets.
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Post by Leftee on Jan 20, 2020 22:13:29 GMT -5
I like them and I don’t know that I can hear that they’re SS.
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Post by 9fingers on Jan 21, 2020 9:25:30 GMT -5
I've been using SS frets for more than 15 years and I say "not enough to make a player decide against them." I notice no difference. In fact, the positives outweigh the negatives (if any at all, really) because they remain glass smooth and they last virtually forever. I'm so convinced about this stuff that I had both my CS Fenders refretted with SS. Anytime someone tells me they brighten the sound of a guitar, I remind them there's a tone control on there. Personally, I think those claims of added brightness are simply parroted opinions from guitar blogs, etc. Try 'em and you'll never go back to conventional nickel alloy frets. This exactly. I would not refret with anything else (except maybe EVO).
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DrKev
Wholenote
It's just a guitar, it's not rocket science.
Posts: 416
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Post by DrKev on Jan 22, 2020 8:44:14 GMT -5
Personally I also love stainless steel frets and wouldn't want anything else again, when I have the choice. There may be a tonal difference but it is very small and only guitar players will ever notice and even then only in the context of a properly conducted test. Warmoth did the only test I would call in any way definitive. Check it out for yourself...
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Jan 22, 2020 9:02:25 GMT -5
THAT is a great video. The difference is really subtle.
You could pull two new identical make/model guitars off the rack and compare them, and they would play and sound noticeably different from one another. Far more differently than this test.
But like he says at the end of the vid, we're fortunate to have choices and we can get what we want.
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Jan 22, 2020 10:16:39 GMT -5
I did my first and only refret on my favorite guitar using SS frets (ok, I had help from a knowledgeable friend). Honestly I thought I could hear a marginal difference unplugged. A tad bit brighter, ya know, almost like it had new strings on it.
Oh wait...
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Post by LTB on Jan 22, 2020 19:28:21 GMT -5
I've been using SS frets for more than 15 years and I say "not enough to make a player decide against them." I notice no difference. In fact, the positives outweigh the negatives (if any at all, really) because they remain glass smooth and they last virtually forever. I'm so convinced about this stuff that I had both my CS Fenders refretted with SS. Anytime someone tells me they brighten the sound of a guitar, I remind them there's a tone control on there. Personally, I think those claims of added brightness are simply parroted opinions from guitar blogs, etc. Try 'em and you'll never go back to conventional nickel alloy frets. Thanks for the review. I will wait until I am close to needing new frets and have them install SS 😁
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twangmeister
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Posts: 349
Formerly Known As: Twangmeister
Age: 72 and fading fast.....
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Post by twangmeister on Feb 2, 2020 11:07:36 GMT -5
The effect on tone of SS frets can't be more than the effect of an electronic tuner clipped to a guitar's headstock IMHO
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Feb 2, 2020 11:57:03 GMT -5
That's a curious thing about hearing: if a person thinks they hear a difference, they hear a difference. On the surface that sounds like a dopey statement, but it falls right in with another quirky thing about how guitarists often "listen with their eyes."
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DrKev
Wholenote
It's just a guitar, it's not rocket science.
Posts: 416
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Post by DrKev on Feb 3, 2020 3:50:59 GMT -5
Listening with our eyes = HUGE YES! This is also called "confirmation bias" and is why any YouTube demo/comparison that doesn't let you listen to the sounds first and tell you what your heard AFTERWARDS, is, IMNSHO, practically useless. i.e. it must be some sort of blind test. And remember, when doing those sort of listening tests, if there are two options, you'll still guess which one is which 50% of the time by chance alone, even you don't listen to anything! Don't go thinking you have golden ears because you think you correctly identified a vintage tone cap unless you can do it consistently *at least* 8 times out of 10.
Thank you for coming to my TED talk.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Feb 3, 2020 10:10:41 GMT -5
^^^ Like ^^^
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Post by Mike the marksman on Mar 20, 2020 7:22:52 GMT -5
Has anybody noticed a difference on string life with SS frets? I've heard two opposing schools of thought on this..
-They reduce string life because the harder metal puts dents in the strings -They increase string life because they are smoother and there is less friction on the strings when bending.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Mar 20, 2020 8:10:39 GMT -5
It totally depends on whether you're a gripper or not. If you press hard/grip hard, yeah--the wound strings will get dents in them where they hit the frets. It's not really a bad thing because it doesn't weaken the strings or make them sound bad. But this issue really isn't exclusive to stainless fretwire, because standard nickel alloy frets do the same thing over time. The big difference is that with stainless steel frets, you can replace the strings and the frets remain pristine.
One thing that is critical with the SS frets and the string wear issue is the frets need to be mirror polished, or they will wear the strings. Even a little haze on the fret tops makes them abrasive. But once they're polished to perfection, they stay that way forever and don't wear the strings any faster than common alloy frets.
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Post by LTB on Mar 20, 2020 10:17:39 GMT -5
Listened again with good pair of earbuds. I could not hear a difference in the 1st and 3rd sets but could on the cleaner 2nd set. I was convinced the 1st neck was the Stainless and 2nd Nickel as it just sweeter and fatter tone in the second set. Well I based this on thinking the Stainless would obviously sound brighter. I was pleasantly pleased to here I was wrong and preferred the #2 Stainless.
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DrKev
Wholenote
It's just a guitar, it's not rocket science.
Posts: 416
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Post by DrKev on Mar 20, 2020 12:00:11 GMT -5
Has anybody noticed a difference on string life with SS frets? I've heard two opposing schools of thought on this.. -They reduce string life because the harder metal puts dents in the strings -They increase string life because they are smoother and there is less friction on the strings when bending. No significant difference in string life. Theoretically yes, but in practice it is not an issue.
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Post by rickyguitar on Mar 21, 2020 1:05:52 GMT -5
I have been curious about this for years but have not tried ss. Maybe someday.
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Wrnchbndr
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Posts: 353
Formerly Known As: WRNCHBNDR
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Post by Wrnchbndr on Mar 21, 2020 15:02:43 GMT -5
My only spin on stainless is the work that needs to be invested when leveling and crowning. Understand that I personally invest overkill time into fret leveling. I put more time into leveling than is necessary or useful but I can't help myself.
With common nickel alloy frets, my process can go from 600 sandpaper to mirror gloss using my rotary tool with no intermediate steps. I may sometimes employ 1200 grit when the fretboard is rosewood. On a maple fretboard, its simply 600 grit with a fretboard protector and then the rotary tool.
You cannot do this with stainless steel. You need to use 400, 600, 1000, and 1500 in procession and then use a rotary tool. If you don't have a rotary tool, you also need to use 2000 and then polish by by hand. You cannot skip a step. With a rotary tool, the stainless steel heats up quickly enough to actually burn the wood if you dwell too long. Any and all imperfections in the crown are detectable via the feel of the string if you bend. These imperfections will not go away because the fret material is harder than the metal of the string. With nickel, they will.
On the other hand... Stainless will not gum up your diamond tools like nickel will. It can ruin your diamond tools if you use them hard enough to generate heat so just go slow. I haven't had any problems with good quality conventional files or crowning files but I employ strict good discipline with my files.
I'm gonna guess that a standard refret takes me about 20% longer if I use stainless and its harder on my already weary finger joints.
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Post by Leftee on Mar 21, 2020 15:07:43 GMT -5
My only spin on stainless is the work that needs to be invested when leveling and crowning. Understand that I personally invest overkill time into fret leveling. I put more time into leveling than is necessary or useful but I can't help myself. With common nickel alloy frets, my process can go from 600 sandpaper to mirror gloss using my rotary tool with no intermediate steps. I may sometimes employ 1200 grit when the fretboard is rosewood. On a maple fretboard, its simply 600 grit with a fretboard protector and then the rotary tool. You cannot do this with stainless steel. You need to use 400, 600, 1000, and 1500 in procession and then use a rotary tool. If you don't have a rotary tool, you also need to use 2000 and then polish by by hand. You cannot skip a step. With a rotary tool, the stainless steel heats up quickly enough to actually burn the wood if you dwell too long. Any and all imperfections in the crown are detectable via the feel of the string if you bend. These imperfections will not go away because the fret material is harder than the metal of the string. With nickel, they will. On the other hand... Stainless will not gum up your diamond tools like nickel will. It can ruin your diamond tools if you use them hard enough to generate heat so just go slow. I haven't had any problems with good quality conventional files or crowning files but I employ strict good discipline with my files. I'm gonna guess that a standard refret takes me about 20% longer if I use stainless and its harder on my already weary finger joints. Roger that! I only started doing fret level-crown-polish a couple years ago and almost always on new necks. And the vast majority of them have been SS or the gold-colored alloy Warmoth uses. It is a long and specifically stepped process. And I have only polished by hand. My hands feel it after I’m done.
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