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Post by Auf Kiltre on Apr 8, 2020 10:34:09 GMT -5
The ones that are incredibly inexpensive and on sale right now? The Jr. model catches my interest but lawdy lawdy, they have a 335 kit too.
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Post by LTB on Apr 8, 2020 11:31:10 GMT -5
The ones that are incredibly inexpensive and on sale right now? The Jr. model catches my interest but lawdy lawdy, they have a 335 kit too. I considered building one but decided to just buy an already built Ibanez AF95 |
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matryx81
Wholenote
I think I know the reason but I can't spell it.
Posts: 771
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Post by matryx81 on Apr 8, 2020 18:40:41 GMT -5
The ones that are incredibly inexpensive and on sale right now? The Jr. model catches my interest but lawdy lawdy, they have a 335 kit too. As someone who is a bassist, I would like to encourage you to do that 335. I think they are fantastic body shapes. |
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Apr 8, 2020 19:58:51 GMT -5
I haven't encountered any of them, but my expectation is that the 335 is going to be a significantly more advanced project. I have no idea what your skill level is, so it might be irrelevant. Presumably you have kerfing, perhaps leveling the kerfing, side gluing, the center block and kerfed mating blocks for the top and side, and I wouldn't make any assumptions on the neck angle being correct out of the box, so knowing how to do that would be key. For a certain experience level none of this is intimidating, but having seen many "kit" instruments come through my shop done by customers, that one seems like it would likely about as ambitious as a kit would get. Maybe I'm wrong.
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Apr 8, 2020 20:18:02 GMT -5
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Apr 8, 2020 21:28:29 GMT -5
Ah, they glued up the body already. Should've looked at it before my last post.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Apr 9, 2020 0:54:06 GMT -5
I have one of their Mini-T kits currently in work. For what it costs, it's not too bad. All the hard work is already done for you (shaping/routing, fretting, etc.). The only real woodwork necessary beyond sanding and finishing is reshaping the 'paddle' headstock if that's your preference. And even that is pretty simple; I shaped this one on the spindle sander with 80-grit to look like a Telecaster headstock, and hand sanded it smooth. The back of the neck around the heel and headstock had the hard corners typical of cheaper import necks, so I re-profiled them with a rasp to more closely resemble the smoother contours of a Fender neck. The frets were not perfect and needed leveling and polishing. The body and neck are mahogany, and all the hardware is standard-size Telecaster stuff, so it has a sort of cartoony appearance. I went with baby blue, because, well, it's a baby Tele. These kits are a pretty good way to sharpen your tech skills. It's also a lot of fun.  |
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Post by LTB on Apr 9, 2020 3:34:35 GMT -5
I have one of their Mini-T kits currently in work. For what it costs, it's not too bad. All the hard work is already done for you (shaping/routing, fretting, etc.). The only real woodwork necessary beyond sanding and finishing is reshaping the 'paddle' headstock if that's your preference. And even that is pretty simple; I shaped this one on the spindle sander with 80-grit to look like a Telecaster headstock, and hand sanded it smooth. The back of the neck around the heel and headstock had the hard corners typical of cheaper import necks, so I re-profiled them with a rasp to more closely resemble the smoother contours of a Fender neck. The frets were not perfect and needed leveling and polishing. The body and neck are mahogany, and all the hardware is standard-size Telecaster stuff, so it has a sort of cartoony appearance. I went with baby blue, because, well, it's a baby Tele. These kits are a pretty good way to sharpen your tech skills. It's also a lot of fun. Where did you get the cool decal on the headstock made? |
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Apr 9, 2020 5:27:22 GMT -5
I print 'em at home in an ink jet. The material is called 'waterslide paper' and is the same stuff plastic model kit decals are printed on.
You can get waterslide paper online or at most any hobby store. There are two types: clear and opaque white. Ink jets cannot print white or other light colors, so if you're applying a decal to a dark background, you need the white. If you want opaque colors and metallics on a decal, you have to go online and find a vendor that does custom decals because that stuff required specialized ($$$$) pigments and printers.
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Apr 9, 2020 8:25:36 GMT -5
Based on the cheap cost of the 335 kit I can only assume these are Chinese made and not exclusive to Stew Mac. Since I already have an Epi 335 Pro I'd only be interested in a 335 build if i had an inkling that the neck profile was more substantial than the skinny Epiphone.
Since I have a nice set of Kent Armstrong Stealth 90's the Jr. kit might be more appealing for a first time set neck build.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Apr 9, 2020 8:38:08 GMT -5
Yeah, I'm pretty sure this is all MIC-sourced stuff. The bridge, tuners, pickups, etc., have no brand names on them. The woodwork is typical of MIC stuff, but the quality of the wood in this kit is pretty good, if a little on the soft side. Everything is drilled and routed properly.
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Post by LTB on Apr 9, 2020 15:26:32 GMT -5
I print 'em at home in an ink jet. The material is called 'waterslide paper' and is the same stuff plastic model kit decals are printed on. You can get waterslide paper online or at most any hobby store. There are two types: clear and opaque white. Ink jets cannot print white or other light colors, so if you're applying a decal to a dark background, you need the white. If you want opaque colors and metallics on a decal, you have to go online and find a vendor that does custom decals because that stuff required specialized ($$$$) pigments and printers. Thanks, that is good to know😉 |
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