I've always admired Bonnie Raitt's old Guild F50-R, both on her records and I got to see her play it live and in person once. Big guitar, but she handles it with no problem, and it sounds as good as it looks. It's the one guitar that a double pick guard actually looks good on.
I've played this video several times in the past couple of days, Bonnie and John Prine doing "Angel From Montgomery," and now I want one. Did a bit of window shopping, and they are out there, and not all that terribly expensive.
Post by funkykikuchiyo on Apr 11, 2020 11:45:44 GMT -5
They're absolutely great guitars that have been made to varying quality levels over the years. For some reason, I see more wonky mods/pseudo-repairs done to Guilds than other brands coming through my shop, but maybe that is just my imagination. Guild must've always had their neck angles kinda borderline, because they're often a bit low, despite the necks not having any S-curve and the neck-block area being built like tanks. So, if you're shopping used, try to get it to a good tech for inspection while you have a chance to return it. That's your best bet.
The beauty of a jumbo design is that while it is bigger than a dread in total area/body volume, the waist is actually narrower, so it can have a huge sound, but still have a more focused tone than a dread. Pretty cool.
Post by stratcowboy on Apr 11, 2020 19:46:12 GMT -5
I had the maple version a couple of centuries ago. So I'm sure it was a Westerly. Yes...a big sounding guitar, but it played well, too. I've got a buddy down in Alamosa (you may know who I'm talking about) whose favorite guitar over the years (though he plays many different axes during different shows) is his Guild F50R. I'm not sure what era his is from. But a number of years back, when I was looking for a new acoustic and was disappointed with what I was seeing/hearing from the other major builders I was trying out, I thought of this friend and his loyalty and favoritism for his Guild. So I bought a Guild and was not disappointed (not the same model you are talking about--mine is an F47--same shape, smaller build).
Excellent information, funkykikuchiyo, thank you. I would really like to find a late-'70 to late '80s Westerly model. Guild's highwater years, IMO.
Funny thing, I don't usually care for blingy guitars, and especially don't care for binding on the neck. But, somehow, it all comes together on this one without looking garish. Very classy.
Yeah, Guild had a knack for doing that stuff without being gaudy. Not sure how they pulled it off...
If I was looking at something around that age, I'd check for normal, obvious condition stuff and signs of weird work/modifications, but also check the neck angle, and saddle placement. Not sure how that time era fared, but lots of older Guilds got the bridge in the wrong place (certain eras of Gibson and Martin, too). Many will be fine, some will just need to be filled/re-routed, some will need new bridges entirely. If an instrument needs a neck reset, new bridge and refret, you're looking over a grand in repairs, so if you can nix the bridge and neck reset, you're better off. Having a refret done is kinda pricy, but also nice to get an instrument back with fresh frets, so not as much of an issue, methinks. I'd also pass on anything where someone planed the bridge down. That is a quick fix that requires lots of extra work if you ever want to have the right repairs done.
Post by funkykikuchiyo on Apr 13, 2020 13:48:40 GMT -5
Right, it is mostly the heel design. With a Martin, the heel is so close to the dovetail, that it is a non issue getting that flat part loose. With wider heels it is more laborious. Still, they shouldn't break unless you're being an animal. The other factor is the finish. Martin has never (as far as I know) finished a guitar with the neck on. It is always separate so you're not breaking finish anywhere. Other brands, there may be touch up to be done. If the instrument is old enough, the lacquer will be really thin and will simply break at the best spot and go back on looking virtually the same, since the lacquer likely had shrunk at those points anyway.
Not sure on the glue, but if you have enough steam/heat, it is still possible... just more wrenching and cursing.