Truss rod adjustment with different gauge strings?

No, 10s would likely cause even more relief / bowing. Need 8s to avoid truss rod tightening.

I don’t want to do two quotes so thank you both. 
With 9s it has a little cupped bow or concave. 

I think i better try again to get the neck loose.

If the neck is as tight as it sounds in the neck-pocket, proceed with caution. If you really have to apply pressure to get the neck out, you can sometimes chip the surrounding paint. Just take your time and be careful and it will be fine.

Remove all four screws.

Lift the neck straight out; have the guitar laying flat, face up. Lift the neck vertically up, out of the guitar body.

If you pull it out horizontally (slide it in the neck pocket), you risk cracking the finish and the wood on the treble side.

Wow, easier than I thought it would be. No cracking, breaking, or finish cracks. 

I took the screws to the point the next thing would have been to take them out by hand. It came right out. I have the screw about a quarter turn to the left and now am about to put the heavier strings on. 

I know if it's not enough, I can loosen the strings enough to pop the neck up and adjust again.

Great info, as usual Peegoo! Thank you!

Thanks to you all who posted, I appreciate it.

I figured if I turned the screw a little to the left, the 10s would bring it back to not quite flat. I’ll watch it the rest of the day and see what happens by tomorrow.

I could have misspoken somewhere. 

Ok, at the heel of the neck is the truss rod nut but on mine it looks like the end of a screw (a real big phillips). I turned it left to leave a little bow in there since I was putting on 10s. My thinking is that the 10s would pull the bow out...is that misspoken? 

Or are you saying the heavier strings would put more bow in it?

From Peegoo, "Remember that clockwise puts tension on the rod and forces back bow into a neck.
Counterclockwise relaxes the rod and allows the strings to pull the neck into relief."

Maybe I'm doing the opposite of what I wanted to do? "By screw do you mean the truss rod nut, and by to the left do you mean counter clockwise?"

Yes, the nut, and yes, counter clockwise.
"Evaluate how much bow it has"? My eye is all I use. If it's concave, and I believe it's supposed to be slightly concave, correct?
Tomorrow I'll see what it has done overnight. If it goes into back bow or convex, I'll loosen the nut. 

I must admit when I start overthinking this I get confused. So, whatever you want to add is fine. The guitar plays great right now with a slight bit of bow, concave on the top of the neck.
thanks

It has a flat head screwdriver adjustment, but it is actually a nut. You can take it all the way out if you want to see what it looks like.

Think of a string at the end of a stick, like a bow and arrow you'd make as a kid. You pull on the string, the stick bows. The harder you pull, the more it bows. Thicker strings pull harder to hit equivalent pitches, so 10s will pull harder than 9s. The truss rod, when "tightened" is akin to pulling the neck in the opposite direction (not precisely what is happening physically, but we'll go with it) causing a back bow. Clockwise, tightening, will pull it back, loosening will do less and let the string pull it forward.

Going by eye can be rife with optic illusions and other problems. It isn't a bad method, but it can be wise to double check. Try this: fret a string at the first or second fret, and also at, say, the 15th fret. Bam, you've just created a shockingly precise straight edge! You can look at the gap between the string and the frets around the center of where you're holding the string. You can lightly tap the string with a free finger (probably the pinky on your left hand). If it doesn't tap, it is either dead straight, or back bowed. If there is a decent size gap, then it has too much bow. You want to go for something around .005"-.008", which is ROUGHLY business card thickness, maybe a tad thicker. Be sure to check both bass side and treble side as they might be different.

Another test is to force the guitar to buzz when you play it. Play it in the first position (but not open strings) hard enough to buzz, and make a mental note of how buzzy it is. Now do the same around the 12th fret. More buzz at open position means too straight or backbow, more buzz up top than open means too much forward bow.

Side note: the reason you don't fret farther up the neck for the string-straight edge trick is because the truss rod does little to nothing that far up the neck. It varies from neck to neck and truss rod type to truss rod type, but generally the most movement happens from the first to 9th or 10th frets. That gets into a whole other area where you can run into S curves and so forth, but that's another thread entirely.

Thanks you guys. I’ll be checking it later or tomorrow. Today is our anniversary so I probably won’t be playing much...or at least I won’t have much alone time with my other gir...I mean, my guitar!

Turning it clockwise / to the right, should have reduced the bow.
Confusing!

Ryder, this will get you in the ballpark:

Make sure the guitar is in tune.  You always check the neck profile with all strings tuned up.

Lay the guitar flat on a table. Lightly place a capo between the nut and the first fret. Don't mash the strings...just enough so all six strings ring clearly from the 1st fret.

Lightly press the low E string down at the 17th fret. Holding the string there, look closely at the gap between the bottom of the low E string and the top of the 8th fret. You should see a very small gap there. Most guitars (electric and acoustic) play well with a gap of about .012" there. If you work with magnification and a bright light on the opposite side of the guitar, you'll easily see this gap.

You don't have a .012" thickness gauge ("feeler gauge)?  It's easy to make one.

Snip off a 2" length of a guitar string that has a gauge of between .011 and .013.  You can steal 2" from a brand new set of strings and they'll still be usable.  Superglue the little length of wire into the end of a little dowel or a Popsicle stick (handle) so there's about 1" of string protruding from the end. There's your gauge.  

Now, with the capo at fret 1 and lightly pressing the low E at the 17th fret, slip the tip of the little wire between the top of the 8th fret and the bottom of the E string. Slowly move the gauge side to side. When the gap is correct, the wire should just barely hang up in the gap before slipping through.

If it passes through the gap with room to spare, turn the truss rod nut 1/8th of a turn clockwise (tighten the rod), retune the guitar, and check the gap again. 

If the string is laying on the top of the 8th fret (no gap or way less than .012"), you need to loosen the rod counterclockwise.  Loosening the rod is not a matter of just rotating the nut to the left.  You must over-loosen the rod and then tighten it again.

In this case, loosen the truss rod 1/4 turn, and then tighten it 1/8th turn.  What you've ultimately done here is loosen the rod by 1/8th turn from where it originally was.  The reason for this is the rod should always be adjusted by putting it into tension.  If you simply loosen the rod and reassemble it on the guitar, it can continue to slip beyond your initial setting and the neck will have too much relief.

All this sounds way more complicated than it actually i, because I've tried to spell out in detail the hows & whys. 

In reality, it's a simple adjustment.