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Post by Auf Kiltre on Apr 29, 2020 8:45:58 GMT -5
Being new to Gretsch hollowbodies I've been really really digging my new G5420TG. On more than a couple of occasions I've popped both the high and low E's out of the bridge slots with raucous finger picking. It seems to me the B60 unit is fairly low tension. I guess my options are, simmer down on the finger picking, slot the saddles a bit deeper or bump the string gauge.
How do you Gretsch guys fair with the B60?
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Post by capnhiho on Apr 29, 2020 9:08:15 GMT -5
What is your present string gauge?
I prefer 11’s on my 5420, but I’m not a fingerpicker. I would suspect that slightly deeper nut slots may be the cure.
On a related topic, if you use the Bigsby, I recommend installing a string set with balanced tension. I tried D’Addario’s BT (balanced tension) strings a while back. I don’t necessarily believe their hype about easier bends, etc., but to my ear, the intonation remains more accurate when using the Bigs than with conventional strings.
As always, YMMV
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Apr 29, 2020 9:29:30 GMT -5
What is your present string gauge? The guitar is currently strung with what came from the dealer. I assume they are 11's by feel and are d'addario based on the ball ends. I haven't changed them because they feel good and appear to be freshly installed. Maybe I'll pull out the digital calipers and confirm the gauge and string it with 11's if not. I haven't ever dressed saddles before, I wonder if a few swipes with the appropriate gauge nut file would do, or if I'd just ruin the files. 
And just to be clear, I'm popping the strings out of the bridge saddles, not the nut.
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Post by capnhiho on Apr 29, 2020 9:51:50 GMT -5
Well, I said nut slots but was thinking bridge slots.
Geezer moment!
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Post by Leftee on Apr 29, 2020 9:59:25 GMT -5
It sounds like you’re having a grand old time with the new guitar. 😎
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Apr 29, 2020 10:04:08 GMT -5
Grand ol time, indeed. So I'm certain these are d/addario 11-49. Close up of the bridge.  |
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Apr 29, 2020 10:41:40 GMT -5
The tremolo itself doesn't have a "tension"... by design it'll provide a certain amount of downward pressure, but the tension will only be determined by the string gauge, scale length and tuning.
Your saddle slots look plenty deep, at least from this picture. Going deeper will just open other cans of worms. Two ways out:
1. You just need heavier strings for whatever playing style you're doing. It isn't the end of the world. Usually if your playing is what necessitates a heavier string, then once you change everyone wins because it'll sound and feel better (subjective, but if it is because you're playing hard, then it is almost certain to be the case). If you're going for a western swing tone, going to flats can be a nice change, too. You very well could be mistaken than it is 11s
2. Your setup is sub par. If the nut is high and/or it has more bow than it needs, then the bridge is also going to be lower than it should be to compensate. Those thumbwheels look pretty low, so this is entirely possible. Also, setups done by people not quite up to professional snuff (possible for a retailer tweaking on the way out the door) tend to have more bow than they need and ignore the nut. This is more common than you'd think. I've seen plenty of guitars/basses where bridges/saddles are bottomed out with high action and the person thinks there is something horribly wrong... adjust the neck correctly, and suddenly the strings are right on the fingerboard, and everything can come back up where it needs to be. The neck angle on these is usually pretty healthy. I'm yet to see one of these import Gretsch electrics with a bad neck angle, but I guess there is a first for everything.
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Apr 29, 2020 10:57:28 GMT -5
Thanks for the input funky. To my level of skill the nut slots look right and I have straightened the neck a bit since taking delivery. I calipered the strings and am certain they're 11's, not dismissing the possibility of going up a gauge though. I usually like a fairly low action but since adjusting the trussrod probably can come up a bit.
In truth the string popping incidents have usually been centered on playing something probably best saved for Telecaster with a compressor; deep dig thumb, fore and middle finger stuff. With my expanded collection I can adjust my playing to the guitar, with some minor tweaks to gauge and/or string height.
Thanks again for visual on the bridge slots. Kept me from ambling in with a file. I wonder how much difference a roller bridge would make.
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Post by Leftee on Apr 29, 2020 11:38:20 GMT -5
Funky is spot on.
I’ve not had any guitar under a grand where I didn’t have to cut the nut slots a little (or a lot) more. Then set up from there. That includes my 5420 - which is an outstanding guitar.
And my Gibson Fadeds. One really needed the files taken to the nut in the worst way.
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Apr 29, 2020 12:43:11 GMT -5
Wow, thanks a lot Leftee. I did as you instructed, started filing the nut and it split in two.
 Kidding
I think there is room to take the nut slots down a bit, but I'm gonna let this guitar settle in a while. It moved from hanging high in a music store in Santa Monica to my room here near Houston. I've already adjusted the trussrod. Twice. The latest here clearly made it obvious I need to raise the bridge a bit.
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Post by Leftee on Apr 29, 2020 12:51:53 GMT -5
You ain’t nuthin’ if you didn’t spilt it in 3 pieces.
Just sayin’
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Apr 29, 2020 13:01:07 GMT -5
When cutting the nut, you want to be absolutely sure the neck is as straight as you're going to want it. If you cut the nut with a bow in the neck, then when you straighten it out it'll turn out to be too low. If unsure, you can always move the neck back past where you think it is straight enough and you know you'll have to let off the truss rod at least a little. Even after doing this stuff for years and years, I'll do this myself if I'm unsure where a neck will land, due to a twist or S-curve.
Also, acoustic and archtop necks can look straight when just regularly sighting sometimes because it'll look more like a rise at the body than a twist, because so much of the fingerboard is away from the influence of the truss rod. The ol' string-as-straightedge trick can be very helpful in those cases. (by that I mean fretting at the first or second fret and at, in the case of this guitar, 14th or 15th fret adn looking at the gap under the string. Shoot for a very small gap, under .010")
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Post by LTB on Apr 29, 2020 14:02:43 GMT -5
Wow, thanks a lot Leftee. I did as you instructed, started filing the nut and it split in two.
Kidding
I think there is room to take the nut slots down a bit, but I'm gonna let this guitar settle in a while. It moved from hanging high in a music store in Santa Monica to my room here near Houston. I've already adjusted the trussrod. Twice. The latest here clearly made it obvious I need to raise the bridge a bit.
Ha, your spacing caught me LOL Glad it didn't actually happen  |
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Kidding
