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Post by funkykikuchiyo on May 24, 2020 10:46:26 GMT -5
The last time I spoke up about RH, seasoning, and wood movement the thread got locked so maybe I'm poking the bear on this, but it really needn't be a controversial issue, and people seemed interested before so I'll give it a shot. Mods, toss the thread if it is a problem. I hope it isn't (for the love of humanity), but if it is, I get it.
A video popped up on my YouTube feed. It is a beginner/intermediate level woodworking video about dealing with humidity. I'll let it speak for itself, but two things to keep in mind are A) the work arounds for wood movement provided here just aren't ever options for guitars*; your acoustic guitar top can't be a non-glued floating panel inside a frame. That would be a terrible sounding guitar. And, B) the idea that wood can ever reach a point of permanent stasis, through milling, curing, finishing, aging, crystal charging, "making 'em like they used to", is just a myth, and it is a myth that perpetuates much stronger in the musical instrument world than the general woodworking world. It isn't a hot take, it isn't marketing, it isn't trying to pass off inferior craftsmanship or components as adequate, it is just a matter of material science, and something mankind has known since before the bronze age.
*(some things do actually exist - a classic archtop guitar or mandolin can safely move with the humidity more because of the arch**, it behaves like a strut and has more movement before structural damage happens, and the near-ubiquitous thumbwheels on the bridges are there to allow occasional easy adjustments by the player to account for seasonal movements without swapping or refitting components.) **(if you have a high end solid top archtop, you should still keep an eye on the humidity. That &$#! is expensive. Don't mess it up.)
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on May 24, 2020 11:05:15 GMT -5
Another one, because YouTube really thinks I need to see these today. Good information on this one, but he glosses over a couple things, and when he talks about internal tensions as it relates to final dimensioning, he could be misunderstood as saying it has to do with drying, but it really doesn't (and I don't think he thinks it does, either)... it just co-occurs with the wood storage. Also basically an ad for a wood moisture meter, but whatever.
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Post by Cal-Woody on May 24, 2020 17:01:00 GMT -5
Yes, wood is an unstable component and care must be taken to try and treat it with as much structural strength but as not to make it so that it doesn't transmit vibrations through the instrument for sustain. But I think that there is one component that we are missing, because most of the earlier instruments that were made were made from good, old growth trees and the environment gave them all the properties for good solid growth! Today's woods are not of the same quality because the environment has changed so much that we may be harvesting the proper wood types but they do not have the same duration of growth as the older species did. Today, we grow the same trees but if you look at the 'rings' and see how long it grew, you would instantly notice the difference in them and see how much space is in between the rings. The newer woods have much larger spaces between the rings, meaning faster growth, and the older woods have tighter spacing showing longer growth periods and thus giving you wood that transmits the string vibrations better. This also adds to the structural integrity of the wood. So, when you go looking for a great acoustic top on a guitar, you'll want and notice that the grain is tight near the sound hole and then the grain (wood rings) get larger toward the outside of the guitar top. These properties add to the acoustic resonance and sustain to the sound. A lot of good guitar makers look for these qualities when selecting a wood for the top of their instruments. The back wood is a more consistent pattern, adding to the reflective properties of the guitar and giving it good projections. That wood would be more dense in its quality to aid in structural integrity and response. Taylor guitars of Oregon and Griphon instruments of California, really gave me insight as to their construction of their acoustic instruments and have found that this is true when selecting an instrument, even if it's of cheaper pricing, you can still make a good choice when buying a guitar. So, with this in mind, you'll be able to find good quality instruments and fine tune it to bring out the best characteristics and have better stability throughout its life!
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on May 24, 2020 21:10:12 GMT -5
I don't disagree with any of that, but I think it gets way overstated an awful lot. I've worked on a LOT of vintage instruments, and while there are a few key obvious differences, I think in many other regards the differences in woods are not that remarkable.
Brazilian rosewood obviously isn't used much anymore, and lightweight Honduran mahogany for solid bodies has been pretty well picked over. There are some species of spruce that are very hard to come by these days, but unless you're doing cello tops or something it isn't as big of a deal. Sitka does just fine much of the time. Grain lines are pretty much the same distance now as they were on pre-war martins, often tighter, actually. The problems I see are when makers try to get fancy and they use woods they think are pretty, but are not that good. It is the sort of stuff that would have hit the junk pile 60-70 years ago. Part of that is because it was more abundant and there were fewer conservation concerns, but also because I think some builders are just oblivious. The use of power tools is a part of this, I think. If you're using CNCs and orbital sanders, you won't notice horrible, wonky grain as much as if you're using a coping saw (or even pin router) and a card scraper.
Honestly, if guitar makers were better with woods, they'd know how to exploit woods that ARE available today in a better way. We've done a good job of making certain species scarce, but there are so, so many others that could sound amazing, but they choose not to work with them. What we lack in sourcing of certain species we make up for in cataloging and distributing a multitude of others, and no one wants to be bothered by it. The people who rushed to the cafeteria first got all the cookies, but they're ignoring the perfectly good brownies and cupcakes. Unless you're building replica instruments, I don't see much reason to think it is all over because certain woods are harder to come by. That is just making excuses.
As I understand it, old growth vs. new growth is only a concern when farming of trees is involved. Hickory grown for axe handles in the 19th century comes to mind, and second growth actually came out much better, as the earlier "old growth" had a habit of breaking across the grain. None of the hardwoods used in guitar making are new enough to have been done from replacement plants as far as I know... Spruce for example, ideally has 18-22 grain lines per inch. A dreadnought has a 15 5/8" lower bout, so each half of the top is going to have VERY conservatively 140 annular rings, add more since pieces are going to be oversized for manufacturing. It could be as high as 180-200. I don't think anyone was planting spruce trees for the guitar industry in the 1880s or earlier. If it isn't a farming thing then it would either be a climate thing, or a matter of the forest floor being thinned, allowing trees to grow faster. But then again, annular rings (as far as I know) only come once a year on most species regardless of how fast they grow.
The grain you're talking about with the narrower grain towards the center and wider grain to the outside is done primarily for strength, but yeah, it does help with sound, too. We see pieces like that not because wood is worse than it used to be, but just because it is more expensive. No one is going to send that stuff to the scrap pile for what it costs, and those pieces are generally used on less expensive models, except when a maker wants to use a hyper rare species, but then again, it isn't because it is being grown differently... it just is more rare so you have to work with what you got. And speaking of older tooling, it is easier to use tops with grain run out these days when you aren't using scrapers or splitters, but just resawing on industrial equipment and using massive sanders. The grain run out is a royal PITA to work on with hand tools, and incidentally, less run out means a stronger top and better sound... though admittedly, rather modest gains are to be had unless it is being very carefully voiced.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on May 25, 2020 2:18:05 GMT -5
Wood movement is one of those things that we are either miserable our entire lives because of it, or we come to grips with it as a natural process. I prefer the latter. It's like beach erosion: it's a fact of life and it will never go away, but there are things we can do to slow it down.
It's an inexact science because wood varies--even across different pieces of wood cut from the same board. There is no substitute for experience with this issue. I'm still learning.
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sirWheat
Wholenote
For a better future, play Stevie Wonder for your children.
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Post by sirWheat on May 25, 2020 10:04:40 GMT -5
The newer woods have much larger spaces between the rings, meaning faster growth The larger spaces indicate a younger tree. I don't think the trees are growing much faster today than a few hundred years ago. You could say that trees grow faster when they're younger I suppose. you'll want and notice that the grain is tight near the sound hole and then the grain (wood rings) get larger toward the outside of the guitar top This is just what happens when you quarter saw a smaller (younger) tree. You'd rather have tight grain all the way across for better rigidity, consistent density and thus, better sound transference. This is not to say that you can't make a good guitar with wood that doesn't meet that standard. There are methods you can use to choose good pieces of wood for the top of an acoustic instrument. By applying some science you can also get more consistency from say, guitar to guitar. When it comes to an acoustic sound-board the wood has to have a balance of density and (at least) rigidity. Spruce happens to offer the best results. Mahogany and cedar are sometimes used as well but there aren't a lot of woods that have the magic formula that allows good projection along with enough strength to not break under the rigors of vibrations. I'm talking specifically about the thin woods necessary for an acoustic guitar here... When it comes to a solid-body I agree with you Funky. People have gone way overboard in what they think is necessary for a good sounding electric. Don't get me started on fret-board species. Sheesh, what about the rest of the neck? You know, that stuff that makes up eighty percent or so of said neck? How about resonance? I have an Alder guitar (body made of two un-matched pieces with non-centered seam, neck made of three pieces of figured maple) that is by far the most resonant electric I've ever played and yes, it does sound fantastic and just feels so nice to play. I also have a Mexican tele made out of who knows how many pieces of who knows what kind of wood with a bit more than 1/16" of "finish" on it. It's comparatively dead resonance-wise to the alder guitar but guess what? It also sounds fantastic. There are just too many variables (wood, pickups, amps and settings) to ever say that you have to have a given type of wood or even combination of woods in order to get a good sounding guitar. Our ideas about tone were formed by music played on instruments made of nice, old-growth trees. They were made of that wood because it was available and cheap at the time. And of course as anyone who has ever made anything out of wood knows, old straight-grained wood is more stable and usually easier to work with. Guitar players are some of the worst when it comes to traditions. The makers would gladly use cheaper, more plentiful woods if we would get off of our high-horses and buy them. I myself suffer an occasional prejudice in this regard too but if I get it in my hands and it sounds good then, well, it is good. Mr. Benedetto famously made an arch-top out of construction-grade 2x10s for the top, unmatched weather-checked and knotty plain-sawn maple for the back and plain maple for the neck and sides. According to him it sounds as good as any if his others. 'Nuff said, I say.
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on May 25, 2020 12:40:14 GMT -5
Don't get me started on fret-board species. Oh, but I WILL!!! I've never felt that fingerboards was a good use of Brazilian. For back and side sets, yeah, it is an incredible wood. For a fingerboard, it is very easy to substitute. The good old pieces of Brazilian actually are kinda nice to fret because they're in a sweet spot for density, but other than that it really doesn't seem to do much. I've never heard a difference between "qualities" of ebony. The really dense boards with lots of minerals do sound brighter and harsher, but... *shrug*. One design element that someone recently clued me in on was fingerboard thickness. I never gave it too much thought before, but vintage instruments almost always have fingerboards that are too thin by today's standards. When replicas/reissues get this right, the tone follows along and really does something special. Learn something new every day. Throw into the equation that no one considers overall neck mass as a factor, like neck profile or truss rod type, and it really is a disproportionate emphasis, isn't it? Another thing on solid bodies is that for years chambering was seen as a cheater's substitute for light wood, something that people did but often had to hide because the weight relief was something not to be proud of. But, Eric Johnson started by having weight limits on his Strats and went in favor of chambering, so it really raises the question whether it really is a cheat to begin with. I don't know all of his reasoning on making that move, but he isn't one to be dismissed. We're probably overdue to revisit that prejudice, and I'm curious how it might work for other species/designs, like how light ash is going to be harder to come by now. Speaking of Bob Benedetto, he is also adamant in his book that he has never heard a difference between air dried and kiln dried woods, nor has he witnessed anyone being able to tell the difference in a blind taste test. It is one of those things, do you trust the vintner, the sommelier or the cork sniffer?
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Post by hushnel on May 25, 2020 12:47:53 GMT -5
Yeah, and Bob Taylor made one from an old oak palet.
Starting with well seasoned wood, is fundamental.
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sirWheat
Wholenote
For a better future, play Stevie Wonder for your children.
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Post by sirWheat on May 25, 2020 18:47:43 GMT -5
I've never heard any talk about the air or kiln-dried wood before. Is that really a thing? Air-dried is better for bending, but tone? Hmm...
For me, if a guitar plays and sounds good that's all I care about. If for some reason I decided that I had to have, say, Brazilian back and sides on a guitar then I would get one. But only if it played/sounded good to me. Of course the different species are gonna do something to the tone even in a fret-board or acoustic back but ya can't really prove it and anyway the difference is gonna be so slight as to be a moot point. I think that the brightness you mentioned in regard to ebony could be achieved with any common fret-board species since, as we all know, two pieces of wood cut from the same board can have drastically different characteristics. There are many out there with a lot more experience than me who attribute certain tonal qualities to certain woods. Maybe they're right. I dunno, and choose to go at it from a different angle. We humans are surely capable of listening with our eyes...
The recent blind tests with violins and classical guitars produced similar results. Tone is subjective and there are intangibles involved for the player, but to the listener? I know that when the amp is giving me great tone and the guitar seems to be humming in my hands then I play better. May be that the same set-up in the same room might sound like crap to me the next day, and anyone listening to me both times will likely say I sounded exactly the same.
So many reasons to enjoy your guitars (or whatever instruments). I won't tell you that you shouldn't dig it because of it's Adirondack top, Brazilian sides, etc. It's all good, I just get annoyed sometimes by such things as "this guitar sounds good 'cause the thin nitro finish lets the body breathe" and the like. I don't wanna not own a nice sounding guitar because I disagree with the wood choices.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on May 25, 2020 21:15:32 GMT -5
"It is one of those things, do you trust the vintner, the sommelier or the cork sniffer?"
You've perfectly captured the root of the tone argument with this statement. The vast majority of guitar players rely too heavily on the opinions of others for what sounds good. If you cannot trust your own ears to discriminate between the sound of one guitar over another, then either one will be fine! Why should any difference matter if you need someone else to validate one above the other? They're not going to be playing the thing--you are. Trust your ears, be patient, listen critically, and to hell with what anyone else thinks. If it sounds good to you, it is good.
So you like the taste of a particular cheap wine? Fantastic! Anyone that criticizes your like for it can go pound sand. Snobbery abounds.
And yeah...listening with the eyes has been at pandemic levels for a long time.
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on May 27, 2020 10:10:11 GMT -5
I think we might respectfully disagree on a couple smaller points, sirWheat. I'm definitely on team "Wood Matters", I just don't think it matters in the ways people think it does. My problem is when people imagine trees growing with varying amounts of "quality", which is silly because trees are plants, they aren't a self-manufacturing device entering the world for the use in instruments. I do think a Brazilian acoustic, if well made, is truly amazing and can't be duplicated in any other way. Some woods truly do unique things that no other wood can do. But, you can't take a pile of lumber, "seasoned" or not, and toss it on the floor of a workshop and get a great guitar. One of the best (but certainly not the only) example of why wood is just so amazing is if you look at how many times people have tried making instruments out of other materials and failed miserably. Synthetics, with the exception of fingerboards, never stack up. They can work well for certain applications, but are never on the same level. Various metals/minerals can have great sonic uses, but for stringed instruments it is rarely sensible. The resonator might be the only real example, other smaller examples are appearances in guitar hardware, but that's another matter. Wood has an incredible strength to weight ratio, and its density/structure in varying points of the material varies a lot, and (I believe) that is where the "richness" comes from. You don't get one snapshot of resonances and responses, but an array as the sound behaves differently across different parts of the grain. To the original point, that I what I find so refreshing about the woodworking world in comparison to the guitar world. Woodworkers see it as a fact of nature. Guitarists see it as a product. Moreover, they see the big, well reputed woods as the "name brands" and all others as "generics". Comparing a big tone wood to other woods is like comparing the name brand cereal to the store brand. The assumption going in is that the name brand will be better, or at least the standard bearer. The best the generic can do is be an underdog. It is marketing speak, and it is so very deep in the guitar business that even a lot of the people who SHOULD know better seem not to. But yeah, I agree that I think the brave new world of lutherie is going to be on understanding the metrics and knowing how to predict the sound of a guitar. We need to stop making good guitars only by accident. As I mentioned earlier, Eric Johnson had that nice little experiment comparing chambering/weight relief with actual lightweight pieces; it isn't new by any stretch, but it validates an older process that was often met with skepticism. There's the grading of tops with software. Trade secrets and NDAs come into play, but given your posts on here, I THINK you have seen some of the same stuff I have. Some luthiers have been building to deflection angles for brace stock instead of thickness or weight. The more we get that down, I think the less reliant we will be on having highly consistent wood supplies because we'll know how to work with all the different variations. It doesn't mean that wood will cease to matter, it just means we won't be at the mercy of the stars aligning perfectly. The guitar world has always been reluctant to be data driven or to consider what in the manufacturing world at large could really be helpful. Oh well. I get it, I won't solve all the problems of guitar manufacturing in this thread.
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sirWheat
Wholenote
For a better future, play Stevie Wonder for your children.
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Post by sirWheat on May 27, 2020 17:53:24 GMT -5
For clarity, I'm not a professional luthier. I went to the Galloup school several years ago by the grace of some very generous friends who paid my way. I couldn't have afforded it myself. I did the six month program, built four guitars (first one is basically a kit electric) and since then life has gotten in the way of me building my own designs. I already have a good job as a carpenter so starting over at the bottom of luthiery wasn't really the plan. There's also a stellar luthier here in town... I do occasional repairs for others and of course on my own stuff.
That said, I hear ya. There have always been people exploring other materials, etc. but get shot down by the traditionalists. Some day, when we run out of the usual woods then something will have to happen. Sadly, I don't see much happening until then. As I said before, our ears have been trained by the old stuff. The internet has much to do with this situation as well. I started playing before the whole "vintage" thing really got going and, like many of that time, was more apt to think that newer equaled better. Fast-forward ten or fifteen years and you have people all over the web crowing about what makes the best guitar. Combine that with a large group of people with money to spend and time to finally start learning the guitar and it's easy to see how we got to now. Whether or not we'd have seen more progress without the web we'll never know.
"I'm definitely on team "Wood Matters", I just don't think it matters in the ways people think it does."
Couldn't agree more. Every piece of wood (and hardware for that matter) plays a part in the end result. It's just that (I think) there are too many variables involved to definitively attach tonal characteristics to wood species (excepting, perhaps, perhaps in the case of a soundboard). Tonal tendencies maybe. Whatever the case, we all know that if the best guitar you ever played was your buddy's ash-bodied tele with a rosewood board, you can go ahead and buy or build one with the same stuff and expect a pretty slim chance that you wind up with what you're shooting for. I'm amazed (and jealous of) people who say things like, "I had to play thirty strats before I found 'the one'." How could you know after playing for only a short time? I gotta spend some time with a guitar before I know whether I'm gonna keep it. Usually I can find something to love but there have been times when after a few weeks I realize that I can't stand stand the thing even though it thrilled me at the store. Case in point is a MicroFrets I bought a couple of years ago. Can't find much to like about it at this point.
As to the science angle with regard to predictability, I don't see that ever happening and I'm not so sure I want to. A friend of mine, another carpenter who's been at it a lot longer than me likes to say "ya gotta let wood be wood." His meaning doesn't translate perfectly to our discussion but that kind of prediction is akin to watching the tide come in and expecting every seventh wave to be the big one. To a certain extent we're just gonna have to let nature take it's course, so to speak. I'm o.k. with it. Doesn't mean I won't continue to swear a lot when the wood I milled yesterday went all squirrely over night though. Then again...hmm...
One of the guitars we made at school was done utilizing a system devised by I believe an Australian man (I'd have to look it up) in which the soundboard pieces are tested in a certain way before you start building. Trial and error is still necessary but what this system allows is a certain level of consistency. But given everything else that goes into the guitar by the time you're done, results are still gonna vary.
Jeez, I can go on for days. But thank you for the discussion. I've been reading and learning from your posts over the years and respect your opinions and experience. Hopefully your eyes aren't rolling like those of my friends over Friday night beers when I get on the topic. It's certainly true what you said about how woodworkers and guitarists differ in the way they think about wood. I hadn't thought of it that way.
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Post by hushnel on May 28, 2020 14:28:10 GMT -5
Another factor is “ you get used to what your used to”. Not talking about crappy pre-entry level props. I’ve meet a guy playing grandad’s old beater and loved it so much, nothing else would do. That’s all he ever heard and played, until later in life. I don’t particularly like Taylors, and I’m not partial to Dreadnought sized guitars either, yet I acknowledge that they are great guitars.. I think a well made classical is one of my favorite tones. I like the tone and balance of smaller bodied guitars. Among the types I’m not partial too, I’ve heard some they just blew me away,
I still have my first electric bass, a Framus Atlantik, It was my only bass from 1965 to 1981, when I purchased the Fender Precision Special. And I have others that also sound great, like the Guild Star Fire, just wow. Still, I pick up the old Framus and I love it. Nothing else sounds like it. I grew up with it, it made me a bass player.
I think one of the best guitars I ever heard belonged to a good friend and collage room mate. When he was a child he had surgery on a seriously birth deformed leg, so he could be fitted for a prosthetic. He was pre teen. His dad knew that it was going to be a long hard rehab and purchased a Martin D35 for him, this had to be close to 1960. That rosewood guitar sounded like a piano, yet, generally I prefer mahogany.
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on May 29, 2020 9:12:59 GMT -5
sirWheat, no worries. I'm tracking you better now. I wouldn't sell yourself short. You say you're a carpenter and I don't know exactly what you mean by that, because sometimes carpentry and fine woodworking are considered distinct. You sound like you have more experience on the "woodworking" end of things. I've seen a couple types of guitar builders: the woodworkers who take it on because it looks like a fun/challenging project, and the guitar tweakers who want to go deeper. Almost every time, the woodworkers make far better instruments, and by leaps and bounds. They often hit their biggest obstacles with those funny guitar specific things like fretting, nuts and saddles, but the guitar tweakers usually come out with something that makes me want to say "practice on bird houses first". It is part of what has inspired me to go back and learn wood working basics. At this point I think I have more enthusiasm and interest in woodworking than lutherie, but that is another matter. I've worked with Bryan Galloup before (he did consulting work for a company I was working with) and have mountains of respect for him. His school is one of only two that I recommend when people ask me (Red Wing is the other). Obviously I haven't seen your work, but your CV tells me you're better than you say you are. As to the science angle with regard to predictability, I don't see that ever happening and I'm not so sure I want to. It reminds me of a basic argument of hermeneutics that would come up again and again when I was trying to learn pickup design. There was a group that wanted to be as empirical as possible, and another group that just wanted to use their ears. The latter were often mocked as the "golden ears" group, and compared to audiophile cork sniffers who can be fertile ground for snake oil salesmen. The truth is that with pickups, AC electronics provide all kinds of nuances that are very hard to track empirically, but can be heard quite clearly with a decent set of ears. Something might be happening only at a certain frequency and in a way that would take a whole bunch of expertise to be able to isolate, but even the lay person would say "that sounds weird". The empiricists wanted to set up test plates on lathe beds and go straight into digital recorders because they deemed guitars and amplifiers too unreliable for data collection. But, then someone like Jason Lollar would test through guitars in tube amps and just listen. I think it is true for separating elements within a pickup build, too. The experienced builders can hear something and know whether a certain characteristic comes from the wind, the magnet, the baseplate or something else, as well as knowing what comes from the guitar or the amp. I suspect is the the same part of our auditory brain that can recognize different voices, pick out voices from background noise, and a myriad of other phenomena, being slowly trained. All that said, while I lean a bit in the direction of "use your ears" (those guys end up with superior products, if nothing else), the value of the hard testing has a lot of promise. With a pickup, trial and error is easy enough because you can duplicate your success later on, even if you don't know why something work. With guitar build it is a longer process. Wood selection happens at the beginning, and you won't know how that worked out for you until the end, maybe even a period of time after the end. Even if we just break up wood stock that looks the same into a few categories, that is a huge step in the right direction. We know how to make great guitars, we just don't always know how to duplicate that success. Out of 100 HD-28s, I'm not sure how many people at Martin would be able to say which ones are the okay ones and which ones are the truly stellar ones. They'd probably have a bit of luck guessing just from experience (google chicken sexers if you're bored), but not likely in a way where they could turn them all into the amazing examples. Anyway, I'm babbling.
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sirWheat
Wholenote
For a better future, play Stevie Wonder for your children.
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Post by sirWheat on Jun 2, 2020 18:54:05 GMT -5
I do cabinetry and finish carpentry. I guess I'd fall in the middle of the two types you mentioned. I'd rather try to find a balance between the science and my ears, but I am picky about the craftsmanship end of things. I'm o.k. with the fact that sometimes things work really well without explanation. The flip-side of that is why we continually try to master such a dicey material.
I have no experience with pickup winding but understand the materials, parameters, etc. but not much of the science behind it. Obviously pretty easy to get into the weeds quickly with that. Sadly my understanding of electronics/circuitry is still of the nuts-and-bolts variety. I should really take a class.
I came across Flaxwood again today. I'd heard of it before but never looked into it. Have any experience with one? Seems like a cool option with regard to dwindling wood supplies. I see you can get a kit (body, neck, nut) for four hundred bucks. I may be interested enough to give one a try, we'll see. The only other wholly non-wood guitar I've played was a Rainsong which sounded pretty good I have to say. Not exactly like a wood guitar but not that far off either, a very usable tone. If they weren't so expensive I'd have one for campfires and the like.
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