|
Post by Mfitz804 on Jul 25, 2020 8:53:39 GMT -5
By mileage, it’s time for me to get it done. But, it’s a leased car and it goes back in October. I probably have about 2,000 miles left to drive.
A partial synthetic oil change will cost me $85. Should I bother, or can I go another 2,000 and then hand it back?
|
|
|
Post by rangercaster on Jul 25, 2020 8:57:18 GMT -5
No ...just top it off with cheap oil ...
|
|
|
Post by zoikzz on Jul 25, 2020 9:02:54 GMT -5
Even with synthetic blend I am down to twice a year. Newer vehicles just don’t burn oil like the older models. “Chicago” oil change just change filter add if needed. Rick
|
|
|
Post by Mfitz804 on Jul 25, 2020 9:04:04 GMT -5
I checked the oil level, it doesn’t even seem like it’s low...
|
|
|
Post by fkaJimmySee on Jul 25, 2020 9:10:27 GMT -5
Firestone auto centers around here have $24.95 oil change specials all the time. Why synth?
|
|
|
Post by K4 on Jul 25, 2020 9:18:03 GMT -5
If you are responsible for maintenance, yes do it. But find a Jiffy Lube type place and get the 19.99 special
|
|
|
Post by Leftee on Jul 25, 2020 9:20:59 GMT -5
All modern thin oils (0w-20, 5w-20, etc) have some synthetic.
If the oil change is part of your lease terms, get a cheap oil change and call it good.
Since you’re running a blend, you can also run it longer. How many miles on this oil change? In your case, it’s also probably engine hours.
|
|
|
Post by Mfitz804 on Jul 25, 2020 9:23:55 GMT -5
I think it’s been 4,500 miles since the last change.
|
|
|
Post by LVF on Jul 25, 2020 9:27:09 GMT -5
How many mileages are is on your current oil? That would determine what to do for me. If you go 5 to 7500 miles between oil changes, I would do the change. If you are turning in your car when the lease expires, don't they do a prorate and inspection to determine damages that may have been incurred during the lease? Don't give them the ammunition to come back on you. An oil change is cheap insurance against such things. Just don't take it to a place where the greasy kid is doing them.
|
|
|
Post by K4 on Jul 25, 2020 9:29:59 GMT -5
You could just hit the reset on the oil life monitor
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 25, 2020 9:37:34 GMT -5
What does your lease contract say? What are the penalties, if any?
|
|
|
Post by Mfitz804 on Jul 25, 2020 9:46:38 GMT -5
Could void the warranty if I’m not doing proper maintenance. I suppose I’ll go and get it done as cheaply as possible.
|
|
|
Post by fkaJimmySee on Jul 25, 2020 9:54:25 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Leftee on Jul 25, 2020 9:58:02 GMT -5
Cheap is groovy.
|
|
|
Post by gato on Jul 25, 2020 10:12:52 GMT -5
"Premium motor oil and fancy additives are nothing more than slick sales, Consumer Reports says. The consumer watchdog tested 20 types of motor oil under the most grueling conditions - in a fleet of 75 New York taxis - for nearly two years. "The results: There is little difference among brands as long as the container carries the starburst symbol, which means the oil meets a standard set by the American Petroleum Institute for additives needed to keep modern engines running." archive.seattletimes.com/archive/?date=19960629&slug=2336807"Expensive synthetic oils worked no better than conventional motor oil in the taxis, which drove 4.5 million miles in stop-and-go traffic. But synthetic oils may be worthwhile for cars in extreme driving conditions: very hot or very cold climates, or in cars with a high engine load." "Changing a car's oil every 7,500 miles, or at the automaker's suggested interval, is sufficient. Although some mechanics recommend oil changes every 3,000 miles, that only wastes money and adds to the nation's oil-disposal problems."
|
|
|
Post by rangercaster on Jul 25, 2020 10:19:43 GMT -5
If I forget to add a quart on occasion...
The engine seizes ...
Very costly....
In NYC ...
|
|
|
Post by Taildragger on Jul 25, 2020 11:51:19 GMT -5
Mileage is not the only factor which can cause oil degradation, especially if you live in a humid climate. Most owners' manuals recommend that the oil be changed every so many miles or every 6 months. This is why: www.azic.com/moisture-in-oils-the-three-headedbeast/
|
|
|
Post by RufusTeleStrat on Jul 25, 2020 12:00:06 GMT -5
Since I do not have your owners manual I say look at that and confirm the factory intervals. In my own case it is 10k or 1 year. Both my Benz and my Diesel Truck. The truck also has an hour meter and recirculatory exhaust particulate capture. Its a fancy way of saying what cannot burn off in the exhaust canister cleaing cycle gets dumped into the oil and filtered out. I digress. Check the manual. They may have a sticker that says every 4.5 k but 10k works for the manufacture recommendation.
|
|
|
Post by Mfitz804 on Jul 25, 2020 12:56:33 GMT -5
Everything I am reading says 3k-5k for conventional. Nissan doesn’t seem to have a recommendation for synthetic blend, but I’m mostly seeing 7k-8k, even up to 10k.
So I don’t think going to the 6500 I would wind up at will be an issue.
|
|
|
Post by LVF on Jul 25, 2020 13:31:17 GMT -5
"Changing a car's oil every 7,500 miles, or at the automaker's suggested interval, is sufficient. Although some mechanics recommend oil changes every 3,000 miles, that only wastes money and adds to the nation's oil-disposal problems."
If you own a vehicle with variable cam timing, it's best to change oil at 5k at most. As far as every 3k, not necessary but, it's BS to suggest that it would add to 'the nation's oil disposal problem'. Used oil, in most cases, is recycled and in many cases better oil than new.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 25, 2020 19:27:15 GMT -5
Make sure you top up your windshield fluid before going. Those cheap places make their money by charging you for add-ons. Your $25 oil change can quickly escalate to $50. Might also be a good idea to pull the air filter and have a look at it. Replacing it yourself is a lot cheaper than paying to have them put it in. Cabin Filter as well as wipers. too. Also check that all the lights work. High/low beams, backup, brake and signals. They will try their hardest to sell you something extra. Or just be obstinate and keep saying no.
|
|
|
Post by Mfitz804 on Jul 25, 2020 19:36:14 GMT -5
Make sure you top up your windshield fluid before going. Those cheap places make their money by charging you for add-ons. Your $25 oil change can quickly escalate to $50. Might also be a good idea to pull the air filter and have a look at it. Replacing it yourself is a lot cheaper than paying to have them put it in. Cabin Filter as well as wipers. too. Also check that all the lights work. High/low beams, backup, brake and signals. They will try their hardest to sell you something extra. Or just be obstinate and keep saying no. The places here never do that. I’ve had to ask for the filters to be done and they include the washer fluid as part of the deal. I guess I don’t go to the absolute cheapest place, maybe that’s why.
|
|
|
Post by Larry Madsen on Jul 25, 2020 19:53:33 GMT -5
I don’t go to the absolute cheapest place, maybe that’s why. Life has taught me that the cheapest places sometimes turn out to be very expensive once everything is said and done. I once had an oil change where they stripped out the oil plug threads and tried to tell me it was that way when I brought it in.
|
|
|
Post by stratcowboy on Jul 25, 2020 20:53:47 GMT -5
I once had an oil change where they stripped out the oil plug threads and tried to tell me it was that way when I brought it in. Definitely seen that one over the years. I buy all my filters on-line (cheaperhondaparts.com). Actual Honda factory parts. And it often comes out less than half what it is at the dealer. And even less when compared to independent shops. Cheaper usually than brand x parts. Here's a sidetrack question...Even when buying the best grade of wiper blades (or refills) at the auto parts stores, how come they never quite work as well, or last as long, as the original factory parts? I mean...wiper blades--what's the big deal? Now I get my wiper stuff at the above named merchant and I get the same excellent results as the original Honda parts from day one.
|
|
|
Post by Mfitz804 on Jul 25, 2020 20:58:46 GMT -5
I once had an oil change where they stripped out the oil plug threads and tried to tell me it was that way when I brought it in. Definitely seen that one over the years. I buy all my filters on-line (cheaperhondaparts.com). Actual Honda factory parts. And it often comes out less than half what it is at the dealer. And even less when compared to independent shops. Cheaper usually than brand x parts. Here's a sidetrack question...Even when buying the best grade of wiper blades (or refills) at the auto parts stores, how come they never quite work as well, or last as long, as the original factory parts? I mean...wiper blades--what's the big deal? Now I get my wiper stuff at the above named merchant and I get the same excellent results as the original Honda parts from day one. I do the same thing with wipers and the OEM ones from the dealer are always better. Always.
|
|
|
Post by Mfitz804 on Jul 25, 2020 21:24:45 GMT -5
I think people may be mistaking my point. I know oil changes are important and I always do them at appropriate intervals. My point is, with 4,500 miles since the last change, and 2,000 miles until I turn it in (and maybe less if the dealer sweetens the deal and agrees to eat a payment or two), do I need to bother and spend the money?
It’s a synthetic blend, and I’m reading they are good for 7,500. So I’m thinking, save your money and time and say screw it, it’s the next guy’s job.
|
|
|
Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Jul 25, 2020 21:35:37 GMT -5
All modern thin oils (0w-20, 5w-20, etc) have some synthetic. And all synthetics contain plain-ol' grandpa's oil too. Modern engines and modern lubricants are very good compared to 50 years ago. If you're operating your car on dirt roads and running it really hard, perhaps an oil change at 3K-5K miles is necessary. But if the engine is not excessively using oil and it's clean on the dipstick, you can easily go 7.5K miles without damaging the engine. You'll also be putting less used oil back into the environment. Yeah, I know it gets recycled for stuff like bar/chain lube, but still...
|
|
|
Post by K4 on Jul 25, 2020 22:29:33 GMT -5
The question is, will the dealer charge you for an oil change since it is so close to being due? If so the cheap Valvoline type place will save you some bucks.
I would not use anything but the cheapest oil they offer. It all meets spec.
I have never seen an engine blow up due to having oil in it.
|
|
|
Post by K4 on Jul 25, 2020 22:37:55 GMT -5
And all synthetics contain plain-ol' grandpa's oil too. No, the euro spec 100% syn do not. Here in the States, you are correct. I use Liqui Moly (Motul is another pure synthetic), but I do run my car hard at times so the extra temperature protection is worth the cost.
|
|
|
Post by Leftee on Jul 25, 2020 22:44:34 GMT -5
So *THAT’S* what happened to grandpa! 🤔
|
|