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Post by Taildragger on Sept 8, 2020 23:41:26 GMT -5
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Post by K4 on Sept 9, 2020 0:24:14 GMT -5
Never have surfed, this summer we went to Jacksonville and spent many days in the Atlantic. Closest I got was a boogie board. Fun stuff but did not last long enough. I could never figure out what wave to catch. Everytime I thought I had the big one the next 3 were bigger. Then 5 minutes of waiting, at which point I went with what came, when we washed up on the beach the good wave hit......
Oh well we still had fun.
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Post by tahitijack on Sept 9, 2020 10:56:41 GMT -5
Yeah, but you should have been here last week when it was really big.....standard saying among locals when talking to inlanders.
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Post by Taildragger on Sept 9, 2020 11:43:20 GMT -5
Wave judgement (or "reading" the waves) is probably the most difficult part of surfing to learn, especially for someone who didn't grow up around the beach. The wave looks completely different from the vantage point of the rider than it does from the vantage point of the on-shore observer. There are so many variables affecting the size, shape and "ride-ability" of waves: swell direction, swell size, wave interval, wind, tide (how high? how low? coming in or going out?), bottom contours, all of which change constantly over time. No two waves are exactly alike. No two days are exactly alike.
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