009
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Post by 009 on Sept 9, 2020 9:04:32 GMT -5
I think I'm going to finally break down and buy a good set. Amplified Parts' Labor Day sale ends today, and they sell this set of HOSCO files: www.amplifiedparts.com/products/nut-file-edge-cut-guitar-10-sizesI like the idea of single files (vs. double-edge files). I suppose I could buy something from StewMac, but the postage will likely cost about 20% of my purchase price.... So, is HOSCO a safe bet? And what do you use to cut string slots in metal bridge saddles?
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Sept 9, 2020 10:05:19 GMT -5
That is as good of a price as you're going to find.
Nut files are weird things to shop for... I think there are far fewer manufacturers of them than it seems because often I see several brands that look identical. I have never used any with that brand, but an old set I have looked the same and it was a good set.
My in-use files right now are mostly Stew-Mac. Good, but pricey. Very pricey. Probably not that much better than what you're seeing right now. If someone wanted Stew Mac files, I'd advise waiting for sales, but even on sale the ones you linked are cheaper.
The biggest downside of the style file you listed is that the thin ones sometimes jam in slots and it can snap them. If you're mindful of this, and think of it more as a saw than a file, you'll be okay. That said, I still break one every so often if I'm going to fast and not paying attention. It is more likely to happen when the slots are very deep, so taking down the top profile as you go can be another preventative. It will start jamming and being weird before it snaps, so you'll have warning signs.
I am not a fan of the double sided ones. Some people get amazing results with them, I've only had decent luck using them with basses.
For bridge saddles, if we're talking ABR/Nashville stuff, I just use my regular nut files. They aren't being used enough to dramatically dull them. I will generally use the back of them where the teeth don't get use in nuts if it is convenient. Most of the time you're just shaping a pre-notch and not doing much, anyway. For metal work that is more heavy duty, I'll try to use an older, retired set of files. Generally it is only really hard on files with something like a BadAss bridge, making a brass nut (as opposed to setting up a guitar with a brass nut - making a nut requires much more cutting) or other hardware monstrosities. If you have some big amount of filing to do for whatever reason and don't have a spare set, you can often cleverly used a cheap triangular file or something else to get it started and finish with the nut file to get the profile all slick and pretty.
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009
Wholenote
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Posts: 513
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Post by 009 on Sept 9, 2020 10:20:36 GMT -5
Thanks for the comprehensive reply.... Amplified Parts sells single files, should I ever need to replace one or two.
I knew that a triangular file is often recommended/used for bridge string "slots," like on movable single saddles. I have a Sorkin Bowtie bridge aluminum saddle, a used one on a guitar, that seem to have been slotted with with a typical nut file with basically parallel sides (and not a "V"). The "high e" slot is somewhat deep, with the entire string lying within the slot; seems to have been skillfully done by hand, and probably not with a thin metal Dremel cut-off disk.
This set of files is double-edge in that both sides provide the same thickness of cut. I suppose I could, with a Magic Marker on the handle, identify one side to use on metal.... Well, I'm not that experienced. (My current set of files is a notched set of feeler gauges; inefficient, at best.) It's time to move up. Thanks.
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Post by hushnel on Sept 9, 2020 10:53:13 GMT -5
Usually there is enough meat on nuts to start the E and B slots with a wider file, it’s that initial cutting that seems to bite the file, I use bees wax as a lubricant, helps to keep the teeth of the saw from jumping, not used on files. Another thing I’ve done on new installs is line everything up and start the cuts before attaching the nut to the neck, I use a guide on the file so it doesn’t move, just a bit of scrap Corian. You could actually make a gig that is slotted to anchor at the first fret, but it’s really not necessary.
The nut/saddle vise is one of my most used tools.
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009
Wholenote
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Post by 009 on Sept 9, 2020 11:04:18 GMT -5
Thanks for the tips. I'll check out the vise.
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DrKev
Wholenote
It's just a guitar, it's not rocket science.
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Post by DrKev on Sept 9, 2020 11:19:57 GMT -5
I have the Uo-Chikyu nut files. I'm happy with them.
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009
Wholenote
Take me to your leader!
Posts: 513
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Post by 009 on Sept 9, 2020 12:16:57 GMT -5
Well, they're ordered. I don't know why I didn't buy a set a decade ago. I've given far less thought to buying a new guitar than buying these files....
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DrKev
Wholenote
It's just a guitar, it's not rocket science.
Posts: 405
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Post by DrKev on Sept 9, 2020 15:38:57 GMT -5
I'd like to second what hushnel said - a little lube helps keep cutting smooth and reduces breakage of the thinnest files.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Sept 9, 2020 15:56:23 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure Hosco is Hoshino, made in Japan. Good stuff.
I use standard nut files to cut metal saddles like Tune-o-matics, etc., because the saddles are not made from steel. They're usually zinc/Zamak or an alloy of brass, which is much softer than the file; they don't take any damage at all.
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Post by Larry Madsen on Sept 9, 2020 16:42:40 GMT -5
I've had these for a while. They seem to do a good job. They will probably do a better job once I learn how to use them DSC_2288 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
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Post by LTB on Sept 20, 2020 0:39:22 GMT -5
I've had these for a while. They seem to do a good job. That seems to be a good set with nice sizes in it.
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Post by Larry Madsen on Sept 20, 2020 10:10:14 GMT -5
I purchased about half of them as a custom set or individually in some cases.
There are still a few sizes I'd like to add, but as we all realize, they ain't cheap. 😜
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