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Post by tiller2 on Nov 20, 2020 14:47:56 GMT -5
A blood relative not known for his gracefulness knocked over my favorite Strat partscaster and took a nasty chip out of the finish, at edge of the fretboard. The neck was a MIM Fender so I assume it's poly. Seems like it's time to try using the super glue technique. But how should I handle the edge where the raw wood of the fretboard face meets the side, which is/was coated with finish? Use tape to seal off the face and allow the super glue to pool on the side? Suggestions welcome. Thank you.
Sorry but I don't know how to post a link to my photo. ![]()
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Post by Pinetree on Nov 21, 2020 9:38:43 GMT -5
Dried CA (super glue) is easily removed with acetone (fingernail polish remover).
For what it's worth, I once repaired a chip on my Telecaster where the dog knocked it over and always regretted it because it just seemed more authentic to just leave it be.
.02
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Nov 21, 2020 11:11:51 GMT -5
I just did a super glue repair on my granite countertop edge. It was a small vee shaped chip. I applied the ca in stages and didn't get overly concerned about too much run off. When dried I scraped with a razor blade and sanded with 400 to 2500 grit paper. Aside from a bit of missing edge on the bevel it is hardly noticeable.
Don't know if the same principle can be applied.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Nov 21, 2020 14:03:13 GMT -5
Hopefully you saved the piece that chipped out. If so, apply a very tiny amount of water-thin CA to the crater and press the chip back in. Use no accelerator.
After the CA cures (10 minutes), scrape smooth and polish. It will be virtually invisible.
If you don't have the chipped-out piece, fill it in stages with medium CA. Use thin layers; apply it with the point of a toothpick and use magnification to use the toothpick to push the wet CA where it needs to go. Take your time, and allow each layer to cure. Use no accelerator because it can turn the CA milky. Scrape the repair smooth, and polish.
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Post by tiller2 on Nov 21, 2020 17:13:10 GMT -5
Thanks guys. Pinetree, my issue with the chip is the rough feel on the upper edge at the 4th fret, where my thumb often slides. Auf & Peegoo, the chip is thick finish, like glossy plastic that has been shattered; the rosewood of the fingerboard seems intact. I will mobilize for a slow CA fill-in operation.
Again, thanks.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Nov 21, 2020 21:15:05 GMT -5
Cool. Prop the guitar in a position that allows gravity to keep the wet CA in place until it sets up. Jamming the body between the cushions of a couch works really well for side-of-the-neck repairs such as this.
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Post by Leftee on Nov 21, 2020 21:25:29 GMT -5
Those aren’t pillows!
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Nov 22, 2020 5:02:14 GMT -5
[jumps up and does the Ooooh Grosssss dance]
How 'bout them DOLPHINS this year?
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Post by tiller2 on Dec 11, 2020 17:36:07 GMT -5
Checking in after I did this finish repair yesterday and today (I let your advice fully cure before using)... I propped the guitar on a couch so the concavity of the chip on the finished side of the fretboard neck was level with the floor. I used a toothpick to flow a few tiny drops of super glue in, using magnification to spread it evenly. After an hour I added a microdot of super glue to a divot in the surface, then let dry overnight. Next day, I used some tiny strips of sandpaper (400 & 1500 grit) pulled under my index finger on the glue surface to make level it with the neck finish; then buffed with some Flitz polish and a paper towel. The result is good: hard to spot, the color is right, and glossy. Only a very slight imperfection on the fretboard edge that I can't feel; the spot is only apparent if you catch it in the light "just so." Thanks for your help!
Btw, I read that this repair is for a polyurethane finish; the neck of this partscaster is poly, though the body is nitro.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Dec 14, 2020 13:47:39 GMT -5
Outstanding!
This process works for any clear finish repair (polyurethane, polyester, nitro, enamel, etc.).
Many are tempted to use accelarator to speed the process, but that invites disaster because accelerator often turns wet CA milky in color--and that is permanent.
Accelerator is great for fast repairs and glue jobs where the color doesn't matter. But for clearcoats, always allow the CA to cure slowly on its own.
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