|
Post by Larry Madsen on Nov 26, 2020 12:46:19 GMT -5
I have some shells left over from my previous drum project and have had this idea hidden in the recesses of my mind for a long time. Here's the deal though. My stuff is all Slingerland, not Ludwig. Common decency complels me to call it a Slingo kit, not a Ringo kit I was missing a fair amount of the necessary pieces to really do much, but I have been eyeing eBay all a long and picking up parts as they present themselves at a price I was ok paying. This week I was able to purchase the last of the *big stuff* in the form of this complete snare. Side story on the snare: The seller had it listed at a starting bid of $125.00 AND had a "best offer" option. I sent him an offer of $150.00. He countered at $200.00. I simply placed a bid at the $125.00. As the auction was closing I had been out bid, so I punched in another bid at the last second and purchased the drum for $132.50. I'm not complaining. DSC_2366 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr He was having trouble with the Slingerland throw-off so he replaced it with a DW piece. He included the Slingerland throw-off with the drum. The Slingerland piece is simply missing a short spacer that keeps the mechanism from falling too low when the snares is off. Easy fix! I'll have the DW throw-off to resell. Again, I'm not complaining. The kit will consist of a 14" X 22" Bass, 9" X 13" mounted tom, 14" X 16" floor tom and this 5" X 14" snare. All 70s era 5 ply Slingerland shells. They will, of course, be wrapped in black oyster pearl.
|
|
Grizbear-NJ
Wholenote
"I'll do the BEATING around here"
Posts: 217
Age: 71
|
Post by Grizbear-NJ on Nov 27, 2020 0:08:17 GMT -5
As a drummer, I have to jump in here. First off; GOOD FIND, and good luck with the project. Slingerland is a good, quality product line to work with; and the drum sizes are versatile enough for any number of applications.
My first question: do you intend to "restore" the drum-kit, or "refurbish" it? What's the difference you ask? To restore the kit you need "original" parts; "refurbishing" involves new parts and some modifications.
Depending on the age of the drum-kit, the first thing you need to consider are the drum heads, what's the condition of both the batter and bottom heads? "Rule of Thumb"; most gigging drummers change drum-heads once every two or three years, (like you would change guitar strings) depending on the amount of use. There are a multitude of different types of heads available on the market. If you intend to use the kit for studio work, or live stage work; make your decisions accordingly. A good guideline and starting point is to tune your drums acoustically; once you get them tuned to your satisfaction; you can then experiment with microphones and sound reinforcement at a later time.
Another "Rule of Thumb" regarding cleaning products; you can use any brand or type of polish or wax that you would use on a car, (probably cheaper than most music store products). DO NOT use house hold cleaners on drums, they will strip the wax or polish. The best cleaner for drums is auto detailing fluid.
A trick we learned on the Jersey Shore: if you play an outdoor gig near salt water; take WD-40, spray it lightly on a rag, and then wipe down the drums and hardware before the gig (cymbals included), that will help prevent salt related corrosion. After the gig, you can clean the drum set with the detailing fluid.
One thing to remember: even though Slingerland is an American based company; you may come across both Metric and American Standard mechanical parts. Unfortunately, you will need the proper tools to do the work on, and to maintain the kit.
Good Luck my friend. You know I will be following this thread!
|
|
|
Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Nov 27, 2020 10:36:33 GMT -5
Sounds like a fun project for your new studio! Cannot get better advice from Griz on this...or better drumming either. I sure miss playing with you, brother
|
|
Grizbear-NJ
Wholenote
"I'll do the BEATING around here"
Posts: 217
Age: 71
|
Post by Grizbear-NJ on Nov 27, 2020 14:31:43 GMT -5
Right back at you my friend; Thank You.
|
|
|
Post by Larry Madsen on Nov 27, 2020 18:23:16 GMT -5
Sounds like a fun project for your new studio! It will be a fun project, however ... The studio/music room has my previous drum kit project in it. DSC_2370 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr DSC_2368 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr This one will be mostly for fun and it will be a smaller more mobile kit. Like the guy that knows nothing about playing drums needs two drum kits.
|
|
|
Post by Larry Madsen on Nov 27, 2020 18:40:09 GMT -5
My first question: do you intend to "restore" the drum-kit, or "refurbish" it? As with the previous kit, I will stick very closely to factory Slingerland parts. I have almost all of the parts in hand now. I bought two bass hoops and one of the two is not quite right. I'll be buying one more to replace it. I have all the lugs and stick saver rims for the two toms along with the floor tom legs I have the bass spurs and tom mount. This one. I wanted a single tom tree. It took a while to find a really nice one that I didn't mind paying for. DSC_2371 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr That snare drum I posted the PIC of yesterday? What a difference a day makes. It's close to ready for a new black oyster pearl wrap. DSC_2372 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
|
|
|
Post by Larry Madsen on Nov 27, 2020 19:02:22 GMT -5
the first thing you need to consider are the drum heads, what's the condition of both the batter and bottom heads? The only heads I have are the ones that came on the snare yesterday. I like the bottom head. It's fresh and clean looking and it's the right brand ... to the extent that matters I have Remo heads on the "big kit" and I'll probably lean toward those on this kit ... Obviously, I can get whatever I want though. As seen in the PIC, the big kit has Remo Pinstripes on the top and Ebony Ambassadors on the resonant side. That goes for all except the snares (of which there are three).
|
|
Grizbear-NJ
Wholenote
"I'll do the BEATING around here"
Posts: 217
Age: 71
|
Post by Grizbear-NJ on Nov 27, 2020 22:20:10 GMT -5
Larry: so far everything looks great. Being that you have things apart, when you reassemble the hardware; I recommend that you lubricate any tension rod or bolt before assembly. I have had good results utilizing sewing machine oil and Hoppes Gun Oil (believe it or not), on the threads, use sparingly. I tried a couple of different types of grease/lubricants in the past, but found them to be "messy", and they attracted dirt & debris. Also before assembly, check the lugs and any nuts (female threads) for any dirt or debris in them, or actual deformities in the female threads. The last thing you want is a "crossed or stripped thread" problem with the hardware.
If I remember correctly, the Slingerland lugs/tension rod mounts; have a spring loaded set up inside the lug. Save yourself the aggravation, and double check each one before attaching the lug to the shell. When I deal with that style of lug, I cut and use half a Q-Tip, and insert it into the female thread to keep it aligned properly, attach the lug to the drum shell, and remove the Q-Tip when completed. A little oil on the cotton tip wouldn't hurt.
When you do the "wrap", you will have a limited amount of tolerance with overlapping the seam in the area of the top and bottom bevel. Use the drum head as the guide; if the drumhead covers it, your good.
From experience: if you ever have to transport the pictured drum kit and other drums anywhere; you are going to need a small moving van and a couple of "roadies". You are looking at a lot of work to accomplish that job!
|
|
|
Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Nov 28, 2020 16:53:39 GMT -5
The studio/music room has my previous drum kit project in it. WHOO! Lookit them pimpdaddy drums!
|
|
|
Post by Larry Madsen on Nov 28, 2020 19:56:05 GMT -5
Grizbear-NJ, thanks for the tips. I have had some experience when wrapping the big kit. 11 drums with that kit and another snare I put together for my Son. I'm a bit short on cash for the project right now, so the wraps (looks like a bit north of $300.00 from Jammin' Sam) will be waiting for a few weeks. It will give me some time to sell that DW throw-off, possible about $30.00 sitting there. The drum badge, maybe another $15.00 there. I have a few other odds and ends I might be able to list ... eBay here I come. I should add: The big kit ... I have no intention of moving it anyplace, ever.
|
|
|
Post by Larry Madsen on Nov 28, 2020 20:13:27 GMT -5
Grizbear-NJ, since you are a drummer ... this is the rundown on the big kit. All 5 ply 70s era Slingerland shells. Three snare options. The chrome over brass is actually one of my Son's drums. The 18" thin crash is one I purchased from Hammond101 on the old forum. It's become sort of a memorial piece for me. 16 X 24 Bass Drum 10 X 14 Mounted Tom 9 X 13 Mounted Tom 16 X 18 Floor Tom 16X 16 Floor Tom 8 X 12 Rack Tom 8 X 10 Rack Tom 8 X 8 Rack Tom 8 X 6 Rack Tom 7 X 14 Snare Drum 5 X 14 Snare Drum 7 X 14 Snare Drum (Chrome over brass) Zildjian A 15" Hi Hats New Beat Zildjian A 23" *Sweet Ride* Zildjian A 20" Crash Ride Zildjian A 18" Medium Thin Crash. Zildjian 18" Thin Crash. Zildjian A 16" Medium Thin Crash. Zildjian A 12" Splash One thing I have always found peculiar is the 16" med-thin crash seems to present a lower pitch than the 18" med-thin crash. I would have expected the larger cymbal to give a lower pitch than the smaller one. Maybe you can offer some input on that.
|
|
Grizbear-NJ
Wholenote
"I'll do the BEATING around here"
Posts: 217
Age: 71
|
Post by Grizbear-NJ on Nov 29, 2020 0:44:13 GMT -5
As good as Zildjians are, (my opinion) they have some weird qualities; and their labeling can be misleading. Normally most cymbals are categorized by their thickness and purpose. (Heavy, medium, and thin.)
If you are playing hard rock, you need heavy cymbals. Medium cymbals are generally all purpose. Thin cymbals are normally used for Jazz or lighter playing styles. Your medium/thin crash cymbals fall somewhere in the general purpose realm; and you are right on about the smaller cymbal diameters (same thickness) having a lower pitch.
NOTE: If a cymbal is labeled as "thin" (any brand), be careful how you strike it, and what you strike it with. In playing Jazz, the drum sticks are usually lighter and slimmer, or brushes are used. As you work your way up the musical ladder (towards rock), drum sticks become larger and heavier. Rule of thumb: thin cymbals and heavy sticks do NOT mix, the end result is usually a "cracked" cymbal.
Most of the cymbals "Z" label's as "rock" are heavy. I have a 22" "Rock Ride", a 16" "Rock Crash", and an 18" "medium crash" which are my primary work horses. I find that they can cut thru most stage noise without amplification. I have a set each of 16" & 14" Hi-Hats. The 16"s I use for outdoor or large rooms, the 14"s I use for small rooms, or mic situations.
I have (and use) other cymbals of different thicknesses and diameters depending on the venue, the musical style needed, or playing situation. The "specialty" cymbals (starting with the splash), are normally rated as thin, and are primarily good with mic's, and are "sound specific". Unless the song calls for that particular sound, you probably won't use it.
Your 20" crash/ride will probably compliment your new four piece drum set the best, those kits normally only utilize a ride and a separate crash. The crash/ride gives you more options.
When I bring my equipment to a Jam, I only put out the "heavy" rated cymbals. With multiple drummers involved, you never know what to expect.
|
|
Grizbear-NJ
Wholenote
"I'll do the BEATING around here"
Posts: 217
Age: 71
|
Post by Grizbear-NJ on Nov 29, 2020 14:43:54 GMT -5
I was in the middle of watching the Giants football game when this thought came to me; I apologize for not thinking of this issue sooner.
On your cymbal stands: if they are of 70 era manufacture, they may not have the thread coverings on the threaded part of the cymbal mount. It's very important that issue be checked and addressed. WHY? The cymbal has a round hole, centered, to be placed on the threaded part of the mount, and secured with the wing-nut. It encompasses the balance of the cymbal and other factors. Without the thread covering, the threads of the rod act as a file, causing the round hole to "elongate" or "slot" the brass cymbal (especially with constant use of playing) and ruin the cymbal. If you haven't done it already, there is a simple and inexpensive fix which will not require any mechanical modifications.
Get small pieces of plastic tubing; the inside measurement of the tube should reflect the thread diameter, the outside measurement of the tube should reflect the diameter of the round hole of the cymbal. Cut the tubing length to cover the thread, but leave enough room at the top for the wing-nut to be secured; application is simple, just twist the tubing down over the thread right down to the beveled washer at the bottom. Add your felt washers (bottom and top), and you are good to go.
A little history regarding this subject. ALL of the different drum companies came up with different modifications of what I just basically described, and incorporated that into their cymbal stands. The design of all cymbal stands (regardless of manufacture) headed towards the "Heavy Duty" versions, along with the "Extension Boom", to allow for the weight of "Rock" cymbals and their placement.
In the old days, many a cymbal was ruined because a lot of drummers did not check their cymbal stands. (The felt washers often covered over viewing the problem.) In the overall scheme of things; It was a lot cheaper to "upgrade" to a modified cymbal stand, than purchase a new cymbal.
|
|
|
Post by Larry Madsen on Nov 29, 2020 17:44:40 GMT -5
You must mean these. DSC_2381 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr I have one on every cymbal and a couple of sleeves to spare at the moment.
|
|
Grizbear-NJ
Wholenote
"I'll do the BEATING around here"
Posts: 217
Age: 71
|
Post by Grizbear-NJ on Nov 29, 2020 23:31:36 GMT -5
Perfect my friend. Something so simple, yet so very important. As your project and time progresses I'll probably add more comments. If I become annoying, just let me know; I have a bad habit of becoming "over-enthusiastic" on the subject of drums.
|
|
|
Post by Larry Madsen on Nov 30, 2020 18:21:10 GMT -5
As your project and time progresses I'll probably add more comments. It's all welcome. Life would be quite unbearable if it were lived without enthusiasm. Here's a question. This shell has three of these centered holes. One of course was for badge placement. The other two simply had eyelets installed. In the first PIC of this complete drum up in the original post you can easily see one of these extra holes right there front and center with the eyelet in it. DSC_2382 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr None of my other shells have extra (of these) holes in them. I am tempted to plug these holes. I've already plugged the extra hole drilled to mount that DW throw-off and I have plugged assorted extra holes in other shells, so it's not a foreign process for me. Any reason why plugging them would be a bad idea?
|
|
Grizbear-NJ
Wholenote
"I'll do the BEATING around here"
Posts: 217
Age: 71
|
Post by Grizbear-NJ on Dec 1, 2020 0:31:57 GMT -5
The extra holes are purposely, factory installed, and they are designed to allow air (pressure inside the drum) to balance out when playing. You should find that feature on all brand(s) manufacture of double sided drums, regardless of diameter size. You may or may not not find that feature on "concert toms" (batter head [top] only/bottom open without a head).
I checked some of my drum (maintenance & repair) catalogs/manuals; some of the manufacturers may have used only one hole besides the badge hole, (limited black & white photos to work with), I would guess it was a cost saving idea. I'm not really sure what year the drum manufactures started adding the holes, (possibly as early as the 1940's) but it is definitely standard on modern day double sided drums. That encompasses all types of shells: wood, metal, and acrylic.
I will paraphrase the engineering concept. When you strike the batter head of a double sided drum, you build (increase) pressure inside the drum. That pressure needs someplace to go, ergo the holes. The purpose of the two holes are to act as a balancing "valve" for air flow; especially important on snares, because the snare drum is a primary drum for all styles of music. The metal eyelet or grommet in the hole is just an easy method of finish trim. The purpose of the hole for the "Badge" is two fold; 1-method of attaching the drum badge (Brand advertisement) besides using adhesive, 2-just added insurance to prevent internal damage from over pressure.
The hole created from the Drum Workshop snare throw-off is another story; that purpose was for installation, (different design, different application).
My opinion: if you have completed drum shells without the air holes, think about adding them. (two is enough for any diameter drum)
|
|
|
Post by Larry Madsen on Dec 2, 2020 8:59:01 GMT -5
After taking a look at the remainder of my drums, including the big kit, no other drum has three of these holes in it. In fact none have more than the one hole for mounting the badge. Granted the rack mount toms do have a hole behind the mount to allow for a rod of a mount to extend into the shell if necessary and that would assist this air flow situation. I have to say though, even my floor toms and other snares which do not have that mount accommodation have just the one hole (from the factory) for the badge. I don't know enough about the "physics" of a drum and how it's internal actions work to even discuss it intelligently. I'm not sure how internal air pressure might impact the action of the resonant head opposite the batter head. Obviously the quantity of air involved is quite minimal. I can say this though ... every single one of the drums on the big kit, with the exception of the snares, are fitted with a kick port in the resonant head. DSC_2383 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr You are probably familiar with these. Popular on bass drums for sure. When I installed them I did notice a slight difference and in my opinion a difference for the better. The port above is a 1.5" and it's in a 12" rack tom. The larger toms have a larger 2" port.
|
|
Grizbear-NJ
Wholenote
"I'll do the BEATING around here"
Posts: 217
Age: 71
|
Post by Grizbear-NJ on Dec 2, 2020 13:45:00 GMT -5
It took me a LONG time to get a basic handle on a lot of the engineering concepts regarding drums; even today, I question some of the changes that have occurred over time. I often wonder if the engineering changes reflect mechanical or sales goals. When I first heard the "air flow" concept, I thought the designers were "Smokin' in the Boys Room"; but who am I to question people on that level. I am only the "Grunt" in the field that has to make the thing work in the real world.
I absolutely admire the level of the different skills that you demonstrated with your work on your studio and your expanded Slingerland drum kit. (Or to quote my good friend Peegoo, the "Pimp-Daddy Drums".)
All of my real experience is in repairs, modifications, and upgrades; a lot of my working drummer friends would contact me looking to fix a major problem, or to customize a modification they wanted. (quickly, I might add) And like I said, each drum company had their own quirks and problems. The cymbal sleeve I mentioned is probably a good example: I had to stock three different diameters of plastic tube (among other parts) to deal with the quick fix for the cymbal issue on the spot. You learn real quick (regarding different drum manufacturers), the parts you can or can't interchange.
The "air flow" and related concepts has been widely discussed by many, with just as many different opinions. Solutions: That's a different story. The drum ports you mentioned is a good solution,(especially if you use "Isolation Mounts") unless you have microphones (or drum triggers) for/on the drums. (Which are placed in the vicinity of the batter head by most soundmen)
Regardless: do what works best for you.
|
|
|
Post by Larry Madsen on Dec 2, 2020 17:02:40 GMT -5
Here is another question regarding the design/layout of the kit. One of the things I want to do as I design this kit is keep it simple and compact. My rack tom will come up and to the right on the bass drum. I am considering mounting a cymbal on the bass as well. Most Slingerland kits seem to use a tom leg-mount to hold a cymbal arm. Like this. cymbal mount by Larry Madsen, on Flickr What should I be considering about this idea? Obviously what it accomplishes is it eliminates the need for one cymbal stand. I did add a cymbal stand to the bass drum on the big kit, but it's a bit different. I doubt this piece is even Slingerland. It is solid and secure ... probably more so than the previously pictured option. DSC_2392 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
|
|
|
Post by Larry Madsen on Dec 2, 2020 18:41:25 GMT -5
I have the required holes for the tom mount drilled into the 13" rack tom. DSC_2393 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr This shell is old enough that I don't recall what the deal was with it. It was not drilled for the set-o-matic mount. Also had to drill the mounting holes for the muffler. The two plugged holes are too high for the typical muffler I'll be using. DSC_2394 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr All good now. The badge will be positioned out front where I want it.
|
|
Grizbear-NJ
Wholenote
"I'll do the BEATING around here"
Posts: 217
Age: 71
|
Post by Grizbear-NJ on Dec 3, 2020 0:56:18 GMT -5
Regarding the cymbal stand mount; the "L" rod with the extension was pretty standard with a lot of the drum manufactures. (almost universal) First thought for you to consider is the weight of the cymbal (I'll assume it will be the crash ride cymbal you mentioned.)
Now I will throw you the curve ball. Most drummers opted NOT to mount cymbals, or tom-toms to the shell; that was the number one modification/upgrade that I dealt with. Instead they went for other options of mounting/placing cymbals & tom-toms. The prime reason for this was that the weight of the tom-tom(s) (single or double) in addition to the weight of the cymbal, would be more weight than the bass drum shell could handle. The end result was the bass drum going "out of round" or Oval shaped.
There were some factory modifications that addressed this problem as time progressed. A lot of the drum companies made the shells thicker and added extra reinforcement hoops inside to accommodate the added weight; some companies placed a vertical pipe/tube inside the bass drum and fabricated that to accept the different mounts, (basically making it the base of a stand) taking the weight off of the drum shell.
When you see any videos of drummers using the basic four piece set; most of them opt for separate cymbal stands and a single tom stand. The other reason for this was to address microphone issues. When everything was attached to the drum shell, you had un-wanted vibrations and rattles travel thru from the toms & cymbals. If the bass drum was microphoned in any way, it would pick up those sounds.
Also keep in mind that back in the day, many rock drummers took off the front head for sound and other reasons. That's where the "out of round" issues really became prominent. The next phase was to keep the front head on (with the hoop) and cut holes in the head to accommodate that sound and look. If you check out some of the double bass set-ups the British drummers used; drum and cymbal placement was a nightmare.
The next phase after that, was to utilize "rack" systems; that's another subject to be discussed later.
Getting back to your situation; you do what you feel comfortable with. I'm just presenting some options with pros & cons.
Regarding the internal mufflers; if you have them and want to install them with the intention of "restoration": Great. While new drums do come with them, they are very rarely used by gigging drummers. Most drummers opt for external mufflers or "moon gel" if needed.
|
|
|
Post by Larry Madsen on Dec 3, 2020 8:44:59 GMT -5
First thought for you to consider is the weight of the cymbal ... the weight of the tom-tom(s) (single or double) in addition to the weight of the cymbal, would be more weight than the bass drum shell could handle. The end result was the bass drum going "out of round" or Oval shaped ... many rock drummers took off the front head for sound and other reasons. That's where the "out of round" issues really became prominent. Those are all considerations that have crossed my mind for sure. My shells are all the five ply (thicker) shells, so they do have a bit more rigidity than many. I will always have a front head on my drums so they gain the additional structural support that confinement adds. I should add: That center cymbal rod on my big kit does indeed extend down into the drum to the bottom. As you mention, the weight of the cymbal is resting on the bottom of the shell not suspended up top creating deflection. The toms are the typical set-up where the shell is supporting the weight of the toms. The shells for the Slingo Kit are five ply as well. I don't imagine myself mic'ing the kit so I'm not too concerned that way. Regarding the internal mufflers; if you have them and want to install them with the intention of "restoration": Great. I have installed the factory mufflers on all my drums. I have a friend who is a professional drummer. He has been over a few times and checked the big kit out and in the process given me some pointers on some things as well. He showed me how he would use/adjust the factory mufflers, so I have that input. My Son on the other hand removed the mufflers from his Slingerland kit years ago.
|
|
Grizbear-NJ
Wholenote
"I'll do the BEATING around here"
Posts: 217
Age: 71
|
Post by Grizbear-NJ on Dec 3, 2020 17:28:34 GMT -5
So far, so good my friend. It looks like you did your research, got some excellent advice, and are making good decisions. From what I have seen so far, I can't wait to see the finish product. Keep up the great work.
|
|
|
Post by Larry Madsen on Dec 3, 2020 18:03:14 GMT -5
I'm doing some repairs to my bass shell today. It had some areas where the top layer of mahogany was pulled loose and even off. These two (actually three spots) two PICs are places where the mahogany was completely torn out. DSC_2395 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr DSC_2396 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr I just made a paste of fine sawdust and wood glue to bring them up to flush and seal them in. This next one (below) is worse than it looks in the PIC. The pine board you see is clamped on for another similar repair more toward the center of the drum. The torn loose part here is to the right just above the pine board. It looks pretty minimal in the PIC and it's not as bad as one I have the clamp on, but it needs help to be where I am comfortable calling it good. DSC_2397 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr Then there is this little devil on the bearing edge. I'll be bonding in a piece of solid wood to repair this one. It won't be mahogany, but it will allow me to regain that edge out where it needs to be. I actually have another smaller one like this that is currently glued and clamped. DSC_2398 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
|
|
Grizbear-NJ
Wholenote
"I'll do the BEATING around here"
Posts: 217
Age: 71
|
Post by Grizbear-NJ on Dec 3, 2020 19:35:11 GMT -5
I see what you mean. The two spots that were "pulled off" are not critical; if the glue & saw dust repair does not meet your final approval, there is a commercial wood filler product that will work. In that you are going to cover the drum anyway, don't worry about cosmetic's. Your "bonding approach" for the bevel will work. My question would be; is that damage on the batter side of the bass drum or the resonance side (face).
Two things in your favor: if you are not satisfied with the repair; you can make that side the face of the drum. (In that scenario, you may have to reposition the BD spurs.) With bass drums there is a lot of tolerance with the wooded hoop application of the heads. You shouldn't have any major hurdles to overcome.
|
|
|
Post by Larry Madsen on Dec 3, 2020 20:05:28 GMT -5
The flaws to the bearing edge are on the resonant side.
The sawdust and glue routine is a common woodworker's method.
Once it sets up it will be the strongest part of the shell.
|
|
Grizbear-NJ
Wholenote
"I'll do the BEATING around here"
Posts: 217
Age: 71
|
Post by Grizbear-NJ on Dec 14, 2020 23:34:07 GMT -5
@ Larry Madsen: I've been away for a while; how is the progress on the drum kit project going? Just curious.
|
|
|
Post by Larry Madsen on Dec 15, 2020 7:06:38 GMT -5
@ Larry Madsen: I've been away for a while; how is the progress on the drum kit project going? Just curious. It slowed a bit for me. I have three days off work starting this morning ... I'll be back at it. I ran low on sandpaper and steel wool as well. Queenie has me restocked now at that front. I want the interiors to have a fresh, clean, consistent look. On the big kit I sanded the interiors (maple lining layer) and oiled them with Tung Oil. It worked out very well, so I'll follow that plan with these four shells as well. I have the oil on hand making it an easy plan and at this point it's free. I've sold a couple of things on eBay and have three more listed right now as well. I also have a big 18" X 24" pristine Keller bass shell I'd like to sell. That one will almost have to be a local Craigslist prospect since shipping might be prohibitive. I'll see how that goes. As I mentioned the wraps will run me about $300.00 plus a bit. I'll also buy a set of the Nomad cases for the kit which will run about $250.00. I think I mentioned that I need another 22" bass hoop. I bought a pair locally and once I got them prepped a bit I realized one of them is a no go. I'll post some PICs of the progress on the shells. I plan to have them ready for wraps by Thursday, then they will have some shelf time before I can actually get to the wraps.
|
|
|
Post by tiller2 on Dec 16, 2020 10:06:18 GMT -5
Hi Larry, I have a bag of extra Slingerland tension rods, in varying condition, as well as three Yellow Jacket pedals, from when I overhauled an '80s Slingerland kit some years ago. PM me if you'd like 'em cheap (I'd keep one of the pedals).
|
|