MJB
Wholenote
Who's we sucka? Smith, Wesson and me.
Posts: 634
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Post by MJB on Jan 25, 2021 7:00:47 GMT -5
I'm going to add a piezo pickup to my KALA KA-B baritone uke. The cable jack is supposed to go where the end pin strap jack is located. I have to drill a 1/2" hole which is wider than the binding between the two sides of the body.
Are there any issues with doing this? I don't want the binding to pop off or otherwise be destroyed.
Thanks!
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Jan 27, 2021 13:19:54 GMT -5
Use a spur drill or a Forstner bit to guarantee a nice clean hole with no risk of damage to the binding. Medium speed (motor speed) on the drill and slow feed speed (pushing the drill into the material).  Look: www.amazon.com/COMOWARE-Brad-Point-Drill-Bits/dp/B07RSRCJ7V/ref=sr_1_5Sometimes the existing screw hole for the original button is too large and the brad point in the center of the drill flops around in it. This is a bad thing that can mess up the material. The simple fix is to carve a short plug from soft wood like pine, about 1/4" long. Tap the plug into the screw hole and trim it flush with a sharp knife. That provides a solid surface to keep the brad centered and prevent the outer cutting edges from making a ragged entry. Do not use a spade bit. They are fraught with danger for someone unfamiliar with how they work. |
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Post by Cal-Woody on Jan 27, 2021 18:55:33 GMT -5
Hey Peegoo, how about drilling the hole on the lower rear bout of the uke? This way he could jack in from there and retain the end-pin for the strap? He didn't say that he had purchased an end-pin style jack, as I know that would be ideal, but this would be a quick remedy and not have to disturb the binding.
Just a thought but worth considering. Also, this would allow him to use the strap button and strap to retain the guitar cord while playing.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Jan 27, 2021 19:15:49 GMT -5
Sure, that's always an option. If that is the chosen method, it's good practice to glue a ply cleat/plate about 2" square and 1/8" thick on the inside where the jack is going, because the sides of ukes and many guitars are quite thin. If the cable gets yanked, a plug puts a lot of leverage into the wood and the side can be broken. Adding the plate really beefs up the wood around the jack and prevents this from happening. Large washers won't do it...it has to be a wood plate glued in place.  |
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Post by Cal-Woody on Jan 28, 2021 0:44:41 GMT -5
I might have been too hasty and reread the post and he does have a jack/endpin. But I definitely see your point of reinforcing the wood where I suggested to install the jack. Well, if he puts some painter's tape on the area he needs to drill at, I think he may have a good result without the finish chipping and leaving the binding intact. But again, he will probably benefit from having a wood backing plate there also. That is if the tail of the uke doesn't already have a block of wood there to reinforce the joined pieces of the body.
If it does have a reinforced wood block, then he should be good to go drilling out that area for the jack. Remember to use the tape over the area that he needs to drill!!
That's all I have...
Best regards, Woody
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MJB
Wholenote
Who's we sucka? Smith, Wesson and me.
Posts: 634
|
Post by MJB on Jan 28, 2021 6:26:49 GMT -5
After assurance from a luthier on a uke forum I got her done.  |
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Post by Cal-Woody on Jan 28, 2021 8:08:10 GMT -5
Perfecto!
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MJB
Wholenote
Who's we sucka? Smith, Wesson and me.
Posts: 634
|
Post by MJB on Jan 28, 2021 9:28:15 GMT -5
FYI, this is a Muslady passive piezo pickup, $21 on Amazon. I'm quite happy with the performance of this pickup as well as not having to go into the soundhole and use crazy glue and feel around inside the instrument for the underside of the bridge plate.
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