Owning a '65 Twin Reverb; Questions from a newbie

That's good advice on swapping tubes in this instance. However, the link you provided seems to explain this 'phenomena' so, its considered a normal condition. Outside of that happening, the amp works perfectly. Just never noticed that before and this is one of the many reasons Moe's is an invaluable resource. Thanks

Now that I look at the other question I asked, it seems like kind of a strange question but, it was intended to just start a conversation for this thread and I was interested in knowing if those that have this amp have a preference in which channel they prefer to run pedals through but, it really doesn't matter, does it(?).

So, I'll ask another question: What kind of mods have you done to your Twin and what did it change about it?

As well as a bright cap often on the volume control (usually switchable), every BF / SF Fender reverb channel has an additional fixed treble boosting 10pF cap. I hate its tonal effect, to me it adds a horrid fizzy tizz edge to the tone, that’s very difficult to dial out.
Every Fender sounds better with it removed, when I fix amps I ask if they’re be interested in me lifting it, provided that I’d refit it if requested. Of those I removed, I’ve never been asked to refit them.

That cap is the main reason the normal channel sounds nicer, especially with any type of distortion pedal, than the reverb channel.

C17 on a TRRI, it can just be snipped out with a pair of cutters.
el34world.com/charts/Schematics/files/Fender/Fender_65_twin_reverb_sm.pdf

And most players find that an audio taper pot makes setting the reverb control much easier. But the pots on the RI models are pcb mounted, so a replacement pot needs to have the same physical form factor, which can be tricky.

Adding a HT fuse is a great improvement for almost any Fender, though some RIs already have them.
Same for 1ohm cathode current sensing resistors on the power valves; very handy for quickly checking that the bias setting is ok.

The bright caps (C5 & C10) are on the vol controls, between the 1st and 2nd amplification stages of each channel.
C17 is a different thing, it’s between the 2nd and 3rd stage of Fender reverb channels.
As a vol control is turned up, its bright cap will have less and less effect; whereas C17 creates a fixed high treble boost.

Regarding standby, technically it’s completely pointless and unnecessary, but the standby arrangement in the Bassman is bad (hot switching), it causes excessive anode current surges in the GZ34 rectifier every time it’s flipped into operate mode. Eventually it will develop a lightning storm inside the rectifier valve, and it will short out and blow the fuse. Hence it would be much better to avoid using standby for that amp especially.