|
|
Post by pcalu on Apr 4, 2021 19:19:47 GMT -5
Long ago I bought two sets of bridge saddles from Rutters. One Brass, one Steel. Been on my guitars for years
Funny how you don’t realize how good some things are....
Covid lockdown cabin Fever... About a month ago I order various generic saddles, just to try something new... off of Ebay, ,,,
Rutters must have some decedents of Italian Renaissance Armors forging his saddles for him on the down low. Frack'in musical as all get out... almost magical compared to cheap saddles!
A very noticeable difference, like night and day.. Like elevator speaker to hi fi...
those Rutters went right back in... and I ordered another set.
|
|
|
|
Post by funkykikuchiyo on Apr 5, 2021 9:55:16 GMT -5
Never heard of them. Quality saddles definitely make a difference, though.
What were you comparing them to? For example, if you had brass tele saddles from Rutters, were you comparing them to generic brass tele saddles? I'd be curious how an apples to apples comparison would be. I know there are a bunch of brass types and some (more expensive) brands sing the praises of selecting the "right" one, but I've never done the legwork on that.
|
|
|
|
Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Apr 5, 2021 11:37:08 GMT -5
I've worked on and used all kinds of materials for saddles, and I'm firmly in the camp of "material does matter, but the shape of the saddles matters more." You can get acceptable performance and tone from brass, steel, aluminum, bronze, titanium, you-namium, etc. But the shape really matters.
For example, some compensated saddles such as those my Wilkinson work really great until you start jacking them up high with a neck that's shimmed for back angle. The ramps on the saddles are fairly shallow and that chokes off the string vibration. You can fix this in 10 minutes with a small file and some patient work. Other saddles have steeper ramps and this extra work is unnecessary.
|
|
|
|
Post by Leftee on Apr 5, 2021 11:58:13 GMT -5
I like those Wilkinson saddles, as well. I don’t know if it’s correct, but I shim necks for a decent saddle height.
|
|
|
|
Post by pcalu on Apr 5, 2021 12:56:47 GMT -5
Never heard of them. Quality saddles definitely make a difference, though. What were you comparing them to? For example, if you had brass tele saddles from Rutters, were you comparing them to generic brass tele saddles? I'd be curious how an apples to apples comparison would be. I know there are a bunch of brass types and some (more expensive) brands sing the praises of selecting the "right" one, but I've never done the legwork on that. I’m a/b’ing them to stock Fender saddles, both Brass and Steel , Joe Bardon’ s stock brass and a few generic e-bay variants... I think it’s a couple of factors. I’m thinking they are made out of some cold rolled process, thus having a density and a Rockwell rating greater than most. Kinda like in the tuning fork hardness. The barrels are on the large side... along with the intonation adjustment screw being larger than normal. Best way I can describe them ... with generic saddles you would hear... A,& B frequencies.... With the Rutters you would hear A, B , C ... A tonality and a range you didn’t think your pups had with the stock saddles. I’ve been using them for a very long time... Never really a/b them with others till now. Are there other quality saddles just as good? Probably... Rutters saddles are not cheap ($50 a set.). Imo worth it. Im usually skeptical about a lot of boutique gear, as you know it takes a lot of $$ to move the qualitative tone indicator upwards. Compared to stock saddles these do |
|
|
|
Post by funkykikuchiyo on Apr 5, 2021 18:59:50 GMT -5
$50/set for saddles ain't that bad if you know you'll like them. I've definitely seen things more expensive that accomplish a lot less.
If they are harder that is a plus, too. Brass likes to get those little grooves which introduces a bit of warble/buzz. I imagine a slightly harder brass would still be prone, but keeping it at bay is a good thing.
Real A/B comparison is the only way to go. It never ceases to amaze me how many people post things online about this or that making a tonal difference when there is no control. I've surprised myself many times by finding things make a difference that I never thought possibly could. Pickguard material was an early one for me... got a gold strat and thought a gold guard would look amazing. And it did. It sounded awful, though. Some people insist you need to do recordings and demo them for people who don't know the difference, but I think that's going too far. The subjective experience of how it sounds/feels for the player is important, and doing some quick digital recordings won' capture that.
|
|
|
|
Post by Auf Kiltre on Apr 6, 2021 7:35:39 GMT -5
Looking at Rutters and then Glendale (an even pricier option) I see sets that have an aluminum saddle for the E/A strings. Anyone try this combo?
|
|
|
|
Post by pcalu on Apr 7, 2021 6:28:27 GMT -5
No not yet...
On my gear bucket list to try though...
|
|
|
|
Post by Auf Kiltre on Apr 7, 2021 7:44:29 GMT -5
Ah hell, I got an itch and some Capital One reward points, I ordered a set of the notched brass comp with the aluminum E/A. I've been tempted to try a few different things on the Tele such as steel saddles, threaded saddles, a top loader bridge, etc.
This is a start😎
|
|
|
|
Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Apr 8, 2021 9:06:55 GMT -5
I find top-loader bridges easier to bend strings because the strings don't have to be pushed as far. I imagine string gauge and alloy also matters here, but it does make a noticeable difference because there's less string distance between the tuner and the ball. This 'feel' thing is really noticeable on my Steinberger and Oddvark guitars.  |
|
|
|
Post by Leftee on Apr 8, 2021 9:15:24 GMT -5
I like top-loaders.
I’ve migrated many of my Teles to top-loading if the current bridge accommodates.
Back in the day I used to gig a Hohner/Steinburger copy much like that.
|
|
|
|
Post by Leftee on Apr 8, 2021 9:22:42 GMT -5
The Oddvark needs swing-wings... just sayin’.
|
|
|
|
Post by Auf Kiltre on Apr 14, 2021 16:29:29 GMT -5
Just installed my set of Rutters saddles and dig them, I would say a lot. They're purdy(unlike the guitar, but no matter), nice tight fit side by side and the aluminum E/A saddle delivers nice solid piano tone. I deliberately didn't change the strings and returned the action back to where it was (4/64" all across/10" radius board).
I approve.
|
|
|
|
Post by Leftee on Apr 14, 2021 16:49:51 GMT -5
I had a guitar with a Glendale set with the aluminum E/A on a guitar and that’s what I remember, as well.
Oddly enough, I recently sold them one of those Eminence 1x12 cabs. So I guess we’re even.
|
|
|
|
Post by Auf Kiltre on Apr 14, 2021 19:42:06 GMT -5
Never tried Glendales but have been tempted.
|
|
|
|
Post by Auf Kiltre on Apr 15, 2021 12:17:11 GMT -5
The only small niggle about these is that the intonation screws are a bit longer than the previous set I had. They're not at palm shredding length but close. I believe this is because the bridge placement on my Guitar Mill body is slightly off and requires the saddles be set pretty darn close to the plate mounting screws. I probably should have checked to see if the shorter intonation screws were a fit, but they're flat head screws and I prefer phillips heads for setting intonation. Certainly not a fault of the Rutters, just a future tweak of hardware to deal with the marginal bridge plate location.
|
|
|
|
Post by Auf Kiltre on Apr 23, 2021 11:25:22 GMT -5
After letting things settle in I decided to go back to my original slant comp brass saddles on the E/B and G/D. I left the aluminum E/A. On this guitar the brass Rutters sounded a little hifi and actually did not intonate as well as I'd like. The aluminum saddle intonates perfectly. There are some oddities to this guitar (Guitar Mill body/Allparts neck) that require a shim at the front of the neck pocket, weird. Not faulting the Rutters, just one of those things. I may email Marc and see if he sells just the E/A aluminum saddle, complete the set and try them out on another Tele.
|
|
