McCreed
Halfnote
Posts: 76
Formerly Known As: Mick Reid @ FDP
|
Post by McCreed on Feb 1, 2020 1:59:22 GMT -5
I'm going to be picking up a combo belt/disc bench sander for the shop. I'm sure it will come in handy for lots of jobs, but my main thinking is for doing nuts from blanks.
I recently did an LP nut from a bone blank completely by hand and, holy crap, it was a lot of work! The blank was nicely squared to start but was quite oversized and required a lot of material to be removed. I was able to do some with a sanding drum in the drill press but not an optimal method. The rest was done by file and hand sanding.
So, getting to the point... what is a good grit for doing bone? (& other nut materials)
I'm thinking something coarse enough to effectively remove material, but not so coarse that it's "grabby".
TIA
- Mick
|
|
sirWheat
Wholenote
For a better future, play Stevie Wonder for your children.
Posts: 317
|
Post by sirWheat on Feb 1, 2020 7:55:46 GMT -5
It's been a while since I had mine set up, but I think 150 would be a good all-around grit. That'll leave a smooth enough finish and won't take too much too quickly.
|
|
Wrnchbndr
Wholenote
Posts: 353
Formerly Known As: WRNCHBNDR
|
Post by Wrnchbndr on Feb 1, 2020 10:25:33 GMT -5
Not a big deal. 150 will work fine. You'll find that changing a belt is quick and easy if you need to.
Two years ago my workshop at The Music Box down sized when we changed location. All of my nuts and saddles are done by hand as there isn't room for a belt sander. I keep a large selection of bone and corian thicknesses. At work, its a hacksaw and a dremel. Its not terrible. Violin bridges are the worst but I make due.
|
|
McCreed
Halfnote
Posts: 76
Formerly Known As: Mick Reid @ FDP
|
Post by McCreed on Feb 1, 2020 18:44:25 GMT -5
Thanks guys. Good to know. I plan on getting a range of grits, as you do. Just thought I'd save myself some experimenting by asking here first. Cheers
|
|
|
Post by hushnel on Feb 2, 2020 11:32:04 GMT -5
The last time I made some blanks I used my surface sander to level the nuts and saddles to usable blanks. Final shaping is done by hand with sand paper on a refereance granite block.
|
|
McCreed
Halfnote
Posts: 76
Formerly Known As: Mick Reid @ FDP
|
Post by McCreed on Feb 2, 2020 18:10:56 GMT -5
The last time I made some blanks I used my surface sander to level the nuts and saddles to usable blanks. Final shaping is done by hand with sand paper on a refereance granite block. Unfortunately, no room in the shed (or the budget) for a proper surface grinder! FWIW I won't be making blanks, just shaping pre-cut blanks. And I know there's no escaping handwork. I just want to get to the handwork quicker. Maybe the bone blank I had was extra hard, but the whole job took me over 3 hours for the one nut. It was not a money maker. Fortunately, I made up for most of it on the other parts of the job.
|
|
|
Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Feb 3, 2020 0:05:02 GMT -5
Mick, I use 120-grit for roughing out nut blanks, finish with single-cut files, followed by polishing with 1000-grit paper, and then final polish with the back of the 1000-grit paper. Try it...makes a glass-smooth and shiny bone nut. Be sure to use a portion of the back that has no printing on it or the ink may transfer to the nut. If you don't have one yet, get yourself a hand vise. This not only prevents a nut blank from being launched into orbit around your shop, it also saves your fingertips from getting unintentionally re-shaped by the high speed sandpaper. It provides precise control over any small part you're working on. You'll find many other uses for it, so hang it in a handy place at your bench. This is a tool that comes from model making; not 'models' as used today--but wooden models that served as masters for making molds for metal castings. Gunsmiths, clock makers, jewelers and other tradespeople that shape small parts also depend on them. You can find these cheap at flea markets/boot sales and Junque Shoppes. If you're in a junk shop and spy a crate of old rusty tools, dig around and you'll probably find one. If it's rusty, soak the parts in vinegar overnight and polish it up. I have a few hand vises; one that I modified (made smooth) specifically for doing nut work because most hand vises have knurled grippy jaws that will damage the smooth surfaces of nut material. I know hushnel has a few; we've talked about it. They look like this: If you use a vertical belt sander that has a table on it, another handy tool for nut making is a small drill press vise. These are designed with the jaws, base, sides, and end all 90 degrees from one another. You can clamp a nut blank in it and lay the vise on its side (or on its end) on the sander's table and get perfectly square sides on the blank. Same as above: look around for a used one and get a really good price. Stooge Mac sells one, but they call it a nut-making vise and that makes it mucho dinero ($50 + shipping). It does, however, have the added feature of taller, thinner jaw plates that make hand filing/sanding nut material a bit easier: www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Nuts_and_Saddles/Nut_and_Saddle_Vise.html
|
|
|
Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Feb 3, 2020 1:01:13 GMT -5
Another tool--you might already have one--that works great for holding nut and acoustic saddle material is a sheet metal plier. The locking type is particularly handy. Bond (hot snot works great) a thin strip of hard plastic to each jaw. PE is ideal because it's soft but tough; cut 1/4" wide strips from the plastic lid of a coffee can, and you have a really great tool that helps you work with speed and precision.
|
|
McCreed
Halfnote
Posts: 76
Formerly Known As: Mick Reid @ FDP
|
Post by McCreed on Feb 3, 2020 5:07:31 GMT -5
Thanks Geno. Great advice. I do happen to have a pair of those sheet metal vise-grip pliers. Hadn’t thought of using them for that. Good tip! I will keep an eye out for a hand vise though. Thanks again.
|
|