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Post by LVF on May 25, 2022 8:38:24 GMT -5
I have decided that the specs they have in the diagram are a typo. I went ahead and changed the wiring to what's in the diagram, soldered in the PU's and buttoned up the guitar and replaced the strings. Have to make some adjustments to the bridge as it way out of position. Plugged into the TRRI and immediately noticed how much better it sounded. No more thinness and a much fuller sound. I think these PU's will work out.
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Post by Pinetree on May 25, 2022 10:16:12 GMT -5
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Post by LVF on May 25, 2022 12:19:09 GMT -5
I think when and if I do this again, I'll match diagrams with those from Seymour Duncan and go with whatever comes up from them. I have used them as well before. I had no idea that the accessories that Fender puts together with their PU's would be so...off. In the end though, it was easy enough to correct.
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on May 25, 2022 20:41:39 GMT -5
Pickup screw lengths vary from round head to pan head, and are sometimes different lengths. It depends on the guard. Except for some Squier stuff, the thread is pretty much always going to be 6-32, so you can use whatever you want in there. My experience is that the shorter screws are fine with standard pickups in a normal Strat. You don't need the extra length unless the pickups are extra tall for some reason or if the guitar has some weird geometry going on for it. I wish they'd always just use the longer ones since they're never actually too long and it seems silly to bother with the shorter ones, but whatever.
Use whatever cap value you want. .5032 doesn't quite make sense to me... .050uf is likely what they meant, which can be rendered "503". When you see a three digit cap value, the last digit is the decimal places over, and it is in picofarads. Soooo.... a 223 cap is 22,000 picofarads, or 22 nanofarads, or .022 microfarads. The 2 might be a tolerance thing that I'm not aware of (usually it is a letter), and the decimal place doesn't make sense.
Looking forward to hearing more about how it sounds after you've spent some time with it!
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Post by LVF on May 26, 2022 10:56:45 GMT -5
The length of the screw was notable because of adjustment limits. However, the screws being beveled was odd to me since the mounting hole on the PG are not beveled. Without looking, I initially used these screws but quickly became aware that they were wrong for this app. I have two strats and both do not use a beveled mounting holes for the PU's. Maybe they are now using beveled mounting holes in newer strats as both of mine are in their 'teens' old. Enough about that. How about just setting up a strat! What a process. Just about getting the floating bridge in the right position. In my case, I kept having to stretch the strings, tightening and untightening. Every time you tune a string, the next one would put the first one out of tune type of thing. Anyway, I know for a strat, it can take a little time for it to 'settle in' to stay in tune when you are using the wammy bar. I need to adjust the height of the PU's, this is where the length of the mounting screws come in. No need to think about the limit imposed by using shorter screws with longer ones. As far as how it sounds, it's miles different than it was with the stock PU's. As I said before, I changed the strings as well but, I don't think they are a good fit for a strat. They are Elixr 10's of the nanoweb variety. I had a choice between those and Ernie Ball slinky's in 9's. I wanted 10's in their so, that's how that goes. To me, the Elixr's have too much of an acoustic sound like a grand auditorium sound. IMO, they are not suited for a strat but, I'll keep'em in their for a while until I can get some D'Addario's in 10's. Hey, did I mention the choice of black PU covers and knobs was a good one? Against the black mother of toilet seat PG which blends nicely with the body color, it was the right choice in my opinion. It looks great.
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