My problem with Gibsons.....

A few options:

1. Have a refret done with squarer ends.

2. If you currently have tall frets (modern Gibson), they can be mildly planed to increase the length of the top surface of the frets and give you a smidge more playing surface on the ends of the frets.

3. Get six replacement bridge saddles without string notches. Swap them into the bridge and recut the string notches so the string spread is a teensy bit narrower at the bridge. You can also replace the nut and do the same: slightly compress the string spacing. About .015" to .025" at the bridge and nut will make a huge difference in playability.

We guitar players deal in small dimensions that most normal people have no concept of. A few thousandths of an inch can mean the difference between pleasure and pain/suffering.

While I am a bassist, your last 2 sentences are right on the money even for us.

[quote author="Peegoo 🏁" source="/post/
Absolutely.

Moreso that a pee-anner player  [/quote]


Ah the world of pee-goo 🤣😂😉

Leftymeister, look closely at the very last fret. See how the low E string is farther from the end of the fret than the high E string?

The simple way to see this is to look at how the D and G strings lay on either side of the last dot on the neck. Your D string is snuggled up against the dots down the center of the neck.  You need to "slip" the neck in the pocket.  Here's how to fix it:

1.  Loosen all the strings two turns of each tuner knob.

2.  Loosen each neck screw about one turn.

3.  Holding the body, grab the headstock, and gently pull the neck toward the low E-string side. It helps here to have another person assist  you because two hands is one short.

4.  Watch the two E strings at the last fret as you do this.  IMPORTANT: "gently" pulling the headstock is key.  Pull too hard and you might crack the finish in the treble cutaway.  When both E strings are equidistant from the ends of the last fret (or the D and G strings are centered over the last dot), hold the neck in place and gently snug the four neck screws down.  

5.  Turn each tuner two turns back up to pitch and double-check the two E strings' orientations at the last fret.

Look:


Slipping a neck on a Gibson takes a teensy bit longer 

My problem with Gibsons is tuning problems.

Many players complain about tuning on Gibsons because of the angled headstocks on them.

If I was your tech, and couldn't "slip" the neck (I always just called it aligning) I would have undertaken some adjustment to the pocket.
That current alignment would drive crazy just looking at it, never mind playing it.

"I would have undertaken some adjustment to the pocket."

^^^THIS^^^

Less than a minute of work with some 220 grit paper on a small block of wood would create the wiggle room you need and it won't even be visible when done.

Many players and even some techs are of the faulty belief that a screw-on neck needs to fit tightly along the sides of the neck pocket to achieve correct "energy transfer" (whatever THAT is...). 

Some even swear the end of the neck needs to be in firm contact with the vertical portion of the neck pocket between the neck and the neck pickup.  Goofy!  If that was truly important, Fender wouldn't have removed wood there to allow access to the heel-type truss rod nut:

Yeah, Someone and Somebody really know their sh*t! Their contributions to this, and any forum, are simply invaluable. 

Greg, there are lots of other Gibsons out there that will play differently and sound great.

If you have to fight the thing, why keep it? It's not like you have to give it 50% of your stuff if you kick it to the curb 

Again, I've jumped to a wrong conclusion - the string gauge on the guitar when I got it was 9's, not 10's as I originally thought (so much for eyeballing it). Put a new set of D'Addario 10's and much much less slipping off the fret!  Now I'm a happy camper!  Thanks, guys.