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Post by Mike the marksman on Sept 29, 2022 11:56:38 GMT -5
I have the body from a MIM 50s strat that I got a long time ago, the guitar was parted out over the years and I just have the body left, and the finish is in pretty rough shape. I gave it to a buddy some years ago and it ended up with a bunch of stickers and paint all over it. He stopped playing it after awhile so I took it back. I like the body, it's nice and light and sounds good, but I'd like to get it refinished to something different, probably nitro.
I know poly is difficult to strip, but what would be the *easiest* way? I've heard a heat gun and a putty/drywall knife will take it off with some patience. Has anyone tried this method?
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Sept 29, 2022 12:16:22 GMT -5
I've never stripped poly but have read of anything from the aforementioned heat+putty knife to Aircraft stripper. But I wonder what the downside is to sanding it back to say 320 grit and just paint over any finish.
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Post by kazan81 on Sept 29, 2022 13:08:57 GMT -5
Aircraft stripper is best
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Post by Lesterstrat on Sept 30, 2022 8:58:10 GMT -5
I don’t know anything about this kind of thing, but why couldn’t you just use a palm sander and sand down to the wood?
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Post by Leftee on Sept 30, 2022 9:01:50 GMT -5
I don’t know anything about this kind of thing, but why couldn’t you just use a palm sander and sand down to the wood? I tried that once. It took a long time and was a lot of work and mess. These finishes are tough.
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Sept 30, 2022 10:49:50 GMT -5
Yeah, very tough finish, lots of dust. The biggest mistake I see in the sand-it-off method is the body not ending up flat. If you get a bunch of divots where you sanded more aggressively it will look awful, and possibly not be usable. We had a customer at the shop bring in an old stripped Squier body, and we gave it back to him because the area around the bridge was so distorted it wasn't going to assemble correctly. I remember putting a jack cup on there, and there were gaps you could fit a couple stacked quarters in. I think the neck plate area was all jacked up, too. Obviously whoever did that just didn't understand what he was doing well enough to prevent it, but if you're going for hours with an orbital, it seems like patience would run out and it would just happen.
I've never done the heat gun method, but knowing how hard it would be to sand that would be what I'd try.
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Post by Opie on Sept 30, 2022 11:12:41 GMT -5
Any stripper with Methylene chloride should work, albeit with several applications. Yes, it's nasty, and can kill you in an enclosed area as it causes low level oxygen which may trigger heart attacks, but outside with a mask you should be good. I use a course steel wool to scrub the gunk off after using a plastic putty knife or old credit card.
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Post by insanecooker on Oct 16, 2022 8:37:08 GMT -5
Yeah, very tough finish, lots of dust. The biggest mistake I see in the sand-it-off method is the body not ending up flat. I wonder if using a planer would be an option for the flat parts of the body? Sure, it may lose a tiny bit of material, but at least it should not cause that kind of distortion. You can then use another method for the sides.
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Post by Leftee on Oct 16, 2022 9:48:29 GMT -5
I don’t think the poly would be ok in a planer. Especially since the blades do create some heat. I’d think it’d be a quick way to do in a planer.
I’m not speaking with authority, though.
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Oct 16, 2022 10:03:21 GMT -5
I haven't used planers enough to say, but knowing how hard/brittle/weird poly can be, it doesn't sound pleasant. Best case scenario it would be really messy. I've seen some people use a thickness sander, if it is wide enough for a guitar body. If it was me, I'd start it with an orbital/whatever you're using and do the last bit in the thickness sander since those sanding pads are cheaper.
It could be kept flat by hand, you just need to be aware of what you're doing. If a person goes in hyper focused on just getting the finish off and doesn't check stuff along the way, it is going to get screwed up. When it has looked horrible, it has been probably because it never occurred to them as they were going along. Plus, as the finish disappears, the changing appearance will tell you how evenly you're sanding as you go through color, primer, and so on. Peegoo made himself some sort of tool/jig for really getting bodies flat, maybe it was just a level with sand paper stuck to it. a piece of high quality ply turned into a long sanding block with some handles attached could work as well.
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Post by Leftee on Oct 16, 2022 10:21:43 GMT -5
My one experience with trying to refinish a poly body led me to a hard/fast rule. Never again.
I might rough one up and paint over the poly. But that would be it.
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Post by samspade on Oct 16, 2022 16:06:54 GMT -5
I was a long time ago, but I remember using a wire wheel and some paint stripper. Got down to bare wood pretty well and even.
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Post by Lesterstrat on Oct 20, 2022 10:33:39 GMT -5
I’m starting to think if it were me, I might just buy an unfinished body from Warmoth, or similar, and start fresh. I don’t know if I’d be up for the headache poly seems to be.
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Oct 20, 2022 15:35:59 GMT -5
I think another factor is how you'd plan on finishing it. A solid color is one thing, but who knows what horrors lie beneath, like a mismatched 5 piece cutting board.
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sirWheat
Wholenote
For a better future, play Stevie Wonder for your children.
Posts: 321
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Post by sirWheat on Oct 20, 2022 17:43:15 GMT -5
Are we talking polyester or polyurethane? If it's the latter, then no problem. If it's the former, well, I have a '96 MIM Tele that got knocked over once which resulted in a chunk of the finish coming off at the edge of the body. That "finish" is about 1/16" thick. A very durable and scratch-proof finish but also quite brittle; the guitar came with a crack (well, actually three, emanating from a common point) near the output jack that suggests a void underneath as the finish is partly caved in. Hasn't changed in the twenty or so years that I've had it.
I've read of people freezing them or baking them in an oven; if I were gonna try to remove it (which I'm definitely not) I would probably start with some light hammer taps near the edges to see if it'd crack then go at it (carefully) with a not-super-sharp chisel and see if it would chip off. I wouldn't be expecting to see anything nice underneath...
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sirWheat
Wholenote
For a better future, play Stevie Wonder for your children.
Posts: 321
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Post by sirWheat on Oct 20, 2022 17:47:44 GMT -5
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