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Post by Auf Kiltre on Oct 4, 2023 10:59:21 GMT -5
Equal proportions, wiping on an all maple neck.
Wish me luck. 🥳
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Oct 5, 2023 19:54:59 GMT -5
I really like how this finish goes on, but the drying time between coats seems to be greater than the 24 hrs I've seen mentioned. Humidity has been insane here in the Houston area so I'm going with really light coats. This is a variation of the Maloof finish if I understand correctly. I'll be happy providing it eventually dries hard, much more forgiving than Tru Oil from my experience.
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Post by Larry Madsen on Oct 7, 2023 6:56:29 GMT -5
Wondering how this is coming along for you.  I've used tung oil and been happy. Though not the mixture you have going. Tung did seem to have a "tinting" effect, which I found to be fine on my projects. |
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Oct 7, 2023 8:01:00 GMT -5
I've done 2 applications so far, seems to be drying slowly but I like how it's going on. It's a neck that was previously relic'd and required a lot of front end work. I'm not aiming for perfect since the body is also currently sanded back to a similar condition and waiting for a treatment of platina shellac and white mixol tint, plus aged gold hardware. Yeah, the neck was tinted with alcohol and amber trans tint and does seem to be darkening even a bit more with the new concoction, but I'm ok with that. As long as it eventually dries hard. I'm shooting for 4 light applications but could probably stop at 2.
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Post by Larry Madsen on Oct 8, 2023 6:41:51 GMT -5
I'm sure the humidity is no help at all on this project. That's one thing about the Mojave, I never have trouble getting things to dry out.  |
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Post by Leftee on Oct 8, 2023 10:45:54 GMT -5
Looking forward to seeing your results.
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Oct 8, 2023 12:04:19 GMT -5
Equal proportions by weight or volume? What kind of poly?
A lot of the "tung oil" out there is actually a tung oil/poly combo, so the idea of breaking it down to better control ratios and so on seems really interesting to me.
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Post by Leftee on Oct 8, 2023 12:11:04 GMT -5
I admit I don’t put much into finishing necks these days. It’s either satin lacquer, wipe-on poly or Danish Oil. Danish oil has grown in favor with me over the last year.
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Oct 8, 2023 12:33:28 GMT -5
I admit I don’t put much into finishing necks these days. It’s either satin lacquer, wipe-on poly or Danish Oil. Danish oil has grown in favor with me over the last year. As times goes on, I worry about it less and less, though I'm not a builder. I think everyone internalized the Warmoth mantra that they won't warranty anything without a hard finish a little too much and everyone worried their necks would twist.
I do see issues with relic style maple necks where one side is finished, but the other side has most of it removed. Those are really sensitive to humidity changes, and for good reason. One side of that piece of wood is absorbing/losing humidity very quickly, the other very slowly. It makes sense you'll need to grab the truss rod wrench every time the weather changes. I have a "road worn" neck here next to me wherein I wiped on some tung oil on the "worn" side, and it is far more stable now. But, it was never in danger of twisting or doing anything weird.
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Oct 8, 2023 13:11:49 GMT -5
I used equal portions by volume, using a "fast drying" minwax polyurethane. On the 2nd coat I added a tad more poly.
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Oct 8, 2023 13:29:29 GMT -5
As far as the tung oil is concerned, I used Minwax Tung Oil and the descriptions of it's ingredients are all over the place. The can only specifies that it contains "aliphatic hydrocarbons", so in terms of purity, who knows.
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Post by Leftee on Oct 8, 2023 14:37:08 GMT -5
I admit I don’t put much into finishing necks these days. It’s either satin lacquer, wipe-on poly or Danish Oil. Danish oil has grown in favor with me over the last year. As times goes on, I worry about it less and less, though I'm not a builder. I think everyone internalized the Warmoth mantra that they won't warranty anything without a hard finish a little too much and everyone worried their necks would twist.
I do see issues with relic style maple necks where one side is finished, but the other side has most of it removed. Those are really sensitive to humidity changes, and for good reason. One side of that piece of wood is absorbing/losing humidity very quickly, the other very slowly. It makes sense you'll need to grab the truss rod wrench every time the weather changes. I have a "road worn" neck here next to me wherein I wiped on some tung oil on the "worn" side, and it is far more stable now. But, it was never in danger of twisting or doing anything weird.
As you guys know, I spend my time/energy doing wacky things to the bodies. The neck I just want protected and to feel good. I’ll tint, as I see fit, but I tend to leave necks out of my wackiness. Usually. 😂 The relic situation makes sense. I’ve gravitated to Danish Oil over Tung Oil. To me the Danish is less obtrusive, if that makes sense. It seems like it soaks in and hardens more so than Tung. Or at least the Tung I’ve used. |
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Oct 8, 2023 15:44:45 GMT -5
Yeah, I haven't used a bunch of different kinds of tung, just a few. On the road worn I have here, I used a semi-gloss Formsby. Where I hit the poly it just wiped back off with naphtha. It doesn't have a raw wood feel, but when I scotch brited it after it was pretty close.
Some time I'll experiment more with pure tung oil. One of the woodworking YouTube guys sings its praises because it is a wipe on that actually hardens, as opposed to mineral oil that just kinda soaks in and stays gooey. He was talking specifically about cutting boards. If you cut them open, you find they're always a bit oily and gooey. Having done lots of refrets, I can tell you people who are over zealous with fingerboard oils (usually have a mineral oil base) end up with fingerboards that are gooey right through. You can tell when you start sanding it. Sometimes I'll get the fingerboard completely sanded ready for new frets, and the wood still has a damp look to it, and will feel a bit sticky.
I'd be curious what a highly thinned pure tung oil would be like on a rosewood board, in lieu of the normal treatments. Some factories seem to do something akin to this (you can tell when you sand the fingerboards back or scrape them back and realize the texture changes dramatically), but I have no idea what they're doing.
I've noticed a lot fewer people really want a "raw" feel to necks these days. I think I get less than one person per year that wants something done to their neck to make it less "sticky". Similar to how fewer people want skinny necks, maybe? Less death grip means you don't need it super slippery?
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