Post by Auf Kiltre on May 18, 2020 12:57:35 GMT -5
Old subject, I know, but there are always new thoughts and anecdotes. I just received my new USACG Strat body in Sherwood Green from MJT. They do not finish it out past "closet classic", meaning you get to do some work if you want a higher glassy finish. I'm normally ok with this because in my experience it doesn't take nitro long before it swirls up anyway. Its been about a month wait time so I'm assuming paint on body has been several weeks. You can smell the paint.
If I wanted to do the usual polish/swirl-x treatment, how long you reckon before the finish isn't too soft to handle some wax on/wax off?
At the school I went to we shot nitro on all the guitars. Except for one where we shot for a .010" thickness they all got something like 15 coats over the course of two days. They sat in the booth for not very long, maybe a week tops. From there we wet-sanded and buffed. Those finishes came out great. If I were doing that on my own I wouldn't rush it like but they have held up.
Post by funkykikuchiyo on May 18, 2020 19:03:52 GMT -5
Yeah, 3 days rest or so is fairly standard for production. The longer you wait the less gooey, the less haze when you try to buff, and the less orange peel as it continues to shrink afterward. It'll gum up sand paper less if you wait longer. I've done touch ups where I only waited 24 hours. You definitely know that you're dealing with fresh, soft lacquer every step of the way, but it is doable.
Like sirWheat if I was doing my own thing on my own timeline, I'd let it sit nice and long... but nothing catastrophic happens if you don't. It is more a quality of life thing. It could also be that I'm spoiled by having a stationary buffing arbor. I might be singing a different song if I was doing the buffing in a different way.
I'm just looking to get a little luster into it, less swirls, etc. I have contemplated doing a 2500 grit wetsand followed by a hand rub polish, but maybe I'll just polish. I'd hate myself if I ran through on the edges.
The more I look at the finish the less Sherwood Green I see and more of a dark candy apple green. Seems to be lacking a little blue for Sherwood. I think this and Fiesta red are one of the harder colors to nail.
That looks pretty good; I'd probably skip the wet sanding and go straight to polishing. Stay away from anything coarse like a rubbing compound. Stick with a quality automotive polish like Meguires or 3M.
A rotary foam pad in a small drill works great for this stuff because there's less risk of polishing through the finish on outside corners and radii. Don't press hard...use a light touch and take your time.
Post by funkykikuchiyo on May 19, 2020 11:47:33 GMT -5
Agree with Peeg - going back to sanding seems counter productive, especially given how thin the color is in spots. With my own setup, I'd probably just to straight to the buffer and not sand, maybe use some Trizact in spots where the lines are too deep. Whatever the hand tool buffing equivalent of that is...
If the lines in there are intentional relicing, then they'll come out very easily. One common method of doing that is using some naphtha and Menzerna buffing compound by hand, and it sort of streaks in too much and gives a nice vintagey haze. Since it is only buffing compound giving it to begin with, it means that it removes easily, too.
Post by Auf Kiltre on May 19, 2020 12:45:21 GMT -5
I have never used power tools for buffing out my limited projects, not that I'm opposed to it. I may just try this one by hand. Again, not looking for brand new luster, but would like to reduce the swirls and scratches.
This is a USACG body which Mark and Matt Jenny took over after they folded. 3lbs, 14 oz alder. Hoping all lines up well. My previous experience has been with Wildwood Mfg bodies which Mark sourced and all have been excellent. On my previous custom paint build MJT provided pics along the way, and at one point I noted there was something off about the color. They adjusted and it came out damn near perfect. No pics this time around and in retrospect I wish there were so I could steer them toward the exact shade I was looking for. Not necessarily disappointed, I dig one off's and unique builds.
Auf, I used Mezerna and soft sponge type buffing wheels from Stewmac on my ESP LTD B-5E bass that was sickningly flat on the body. It worked well, I did not use much pressure and kept the speed from moderate to low. The Finish went from Extra Dull Flat to between Satin and Semi-Gloss. Moving forward a 4 years I used the same process on my 2016 Gibson SG Faded that was pretty flat looking (not as bad as the bass but between flat and satin). It being Nitro came out Satin looking whereas the Bass was a Urethane finish and faired a bit better. If you need to see the before and after of the bass PM me and I will post them there.