Neck Finishes

Yes. Music Man have been doing oil and wax finish for nearly 30 years but it's barely even a "finish", it's a light surface treatment. They recommend Birchwood Casey tru-oil and gunstock wax but any similar products will do. Once the neck is sanded smooth (I like P800 or P1200 grit), a little tru-oil is wiped on with a paper towel, clean paper towels used to wipe off, then the same is done with BC gunstock wax. That's it, that's all, takes 2 minutes, no drying and sanding between coats, because there are no other coats. I love the feel. Some of us EBMM knuckleheads like to refresh the finish with a light sand and oil and/or wax once or twice a year, but many never feel the need at all.

The only proviso here is this: I know EBMM further dry their neck wood after delivery (which is principle already dried by the supplier) before production, I don't know anything about Warmoth wood handling.

I’ve done Tung Oil, Danish Oil and Lacquer. DO is my favorite.

It’s probably time to do one with TO, as described above.

Correct. Certain hardwoods like ovankol, bubinga, and kingwood also require no finish and the warranty is still good. Look closely at the instructions that come with the neck and it will state whether that particular neck requires a hard finish.

When Warmoth states "oil finish" in their warranty language, they specifically mean a non-hardening oil.

Danish Oil and most tung oils are not truely oils--they are wiping varnishes. They penetrate the wood because they are thin like water, and they contain polymerizing agents that link up and form hard plastic bonds. So yeah--Danish oil is a "hard finish". Same goes for boiled linseed oil and its derivatives. Read the fine print on the finish container and it will tell you if it's a hardening or non-hardening finish.

Other oils and wood treatments like Teak oil, unboiled linseed oil, and stuff like past wax and Howard Feed 'n' Wax are non hardening.