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Post by hotblooze on Nov 22, 2020 9:53:56 GMT -5
After more than 3 decades, I still don't have a regular regime for bolt-on neck screw sequence. Is there a preferred way ?
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Nov 22, 2020 11:12:41 GMT -5
Personally I go 1-4,2-3, loosely with high and low e's strung for alignment, then tighten 1,2,3,4.
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Post by tiller2 on Nov 22, 2020 11:29:08 GMT -5
I apply the same rule as for lug nuts for a car tire--go opposites then shift by one and repeat. Yeah, per Auf, check alignment before neck gets tight.
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DrKev
Wholenote
It's just a guitar, it's not rocket science.
Posts: 416
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Post by DrKev on Nov 22, 2020 16:37:16 GMT -5
I do "do the one furthest away from the one you just did that isn't the one you did before that". Which with 4 screws is 1-4-2-3. With lug nuts it's the same as what Tiller said. But I also don't think it makes any difference to the guitar. It just makes me feel good.
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Nov 22, 2020 16:44:36 GMT -5
One other aspect is something that should have come natural to me years ago but it took Peegoo to mention it before the light went on. Don't muscle the screws in when starting out, let the threading guide it in. This has saved me at least 15 cents in toothpicks. 🤭
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Nov 22, 2020 17:53:04 GMT -5
I do "do the one furthest away from the one you just did that isn't the one you did before that". Which with 4 screws is 1-4-2-3. With lug nuts it's the same as what Tiller said. But I also don't think it makes any difference to the guitar. It just makes me feel good.
This is what I do, too.
It can help prevent those finish dents/chips that sometimes occur around the corners of a neck plate. Sometimes it is inevitable regardless of how careful you are, and sometimes it is a non-issue no matter how much you crank them like an animal.
If the neck heel and pocket are fairly clean and well crafted it won't make a lick of a difference in terms of set up. Some neck pockets are screwy enough that you can actually change the neck angle depending on which screws you tighten first. If correcting the underlying problem is beyond the reasonable scope for a given job, I err on the side of tightening the top screws first for consistency.
You can rub parafin onto the screw threads if they go in squeaky. Even when drilled properly, hard maple is still pretty dang hard to send screws in, and your wrists will thank you. Speaking of wrists, you can use a power drill to get 'em in if you want, just make sure you do the snugging part by hand.
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DrKev
Wholenote
It's just a guitar, it's not rocket science.
Posts: 416
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Post by DrKev on Nov 23, 2020 4:38:14 GMT -5
You can rub parafin onto the screw threads if they go in squeaky. Even when drilled properly, hard maple is still pretty dang hard to send screws in, and your wrists will thank you. Speaking of wrists, you can use a power drill to get 'em in if you want, just make sure you do the snugging part by hand. If you have a cordless with torque adjustment, find out what level of torque is required to UNDO the screw, then use that setting to get it back in. And we usually over tighten so we could in fact do less (as Peegoo? once pointed out, if we make an indentation of the neck plate in teh paint work, we've cranked too much). |
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Nov 23, 2020 9:02:39 GMT -5
I have a tear in my eye.
Love you guys!
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DrKev
Wholenote
It's just a guitar, it's not rocket science.
Posts: 416
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Post by DrKev on Nov 23, 2020 11:55:20 GMT -5
We love you too, Uncle Fester. X
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Nov 24, 2020 10:57:00 GMT -5
I have a tear in my eye. Love you guys! Oh dear, I do that to people sometimes... it means either too much cologne or not enough deodorant. Quarantine is tricky. |
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