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Post by Larry Madsen on Sept 6, 2021 13:23:20 GMT -5
Thanks Grizbear. I have this pair "Master Sound" in 13" available to me. This set had been at $250.00 which was dropped to $225.00 and I am now getting an eBay generated offer of $200.00 for the pair. These hats have a corrugated/fluted edge to them. I know that (or holes in the lower) are about venting air rapidly. Does that edge do anything to make them more or less desirable ... in your opinion? www.ebay.com/itm/304103240621?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2763.l2649
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Grizbear-NJ
Wholenote
"I'll do the BEATING around here"
Posts: 217
Age: 71
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Post by Grizbear-NJ on Sept 6, 2021 23:06:18 GMT -5
The "technology" is always advancing (or evolving); I have mixed emotions about describing something as "desirable". I always look for the actual quality of the sound, in regards to what the item creates. A lot of the "New" designs, (in general) are really marketing ploys (my opinion); each manufactuer is competing for business. Each new design is a new sound.
If you are looking for a particular sound for a musical genre, you may have to experiment with several variations of cymbals, drums, percussion accessories, sticks, and playing techniques.
Something as simple as a cow-bell, might require several tries depending on what sound you want. Obviously rock and jazz are at the extreme opposites requiring different approaches and equipment. Factor in any type of "latin" rhythm, or any variation of "fusion" and your equipment roster just expanded. There is really no "all purpose" drum-kit set up. (Even though a lot of drummers try.)
To answer your question regarding the corrugated/fluted edge; or "venting" holes in general; they are directly related to the use of microphones. Most sound men will tell you it gives them more options to work with. More tools in the tool box, so to speak. (both cymbals & drums)
However! If you are playing in real time (live) without microphones; it very well might be a "moot" point. Whatever sound the drummer generates in that situation, is what you have to work with.
The real question to ask is: are the cymbals thin, medium, or heavy? (especialy Hi-Hat cymbals)
ADVICE: If you like the look & sound of the cymbals; and if you are comfortable with the price range; go for it. I have over a dozen different cymbals which I alternate in using; depending on the venue. Some cymbals sound great in one venue; change venue's and that same cymbal might sound like trash. Of the cymbals I have, there are about three which are truly universal in any venue I have been in. I chalk that up to luck.
I hope the advice helps.
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Post by Larry Madsen on Sept 13, 2021 14:31:05 GMT -5
I found a set of Zildjian A "New Beat" in 13" locally on Craigslist for $150.00, in like new condition. I'm picking those up. They match my 15" New Beat hats on the big kit. Not that it means much, but it keeps to my current theme. 13 inch New beat by Larry Madsen, on Flickr Another silly thing ... I found these four consecutive numbered badges on eBay. I have badges that are consecutive four out of five now. The new four are in better, cleaner condition, so I'll swap these onto the drums and sell the other four badges. s-l1600 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
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Grizbear-NJ
Wholenote
"I'll do the BEATING around here"
Posts: 217
Age: 71
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Post by Grizbear-NJ on Sept 13, 2021 22:46:06 GMT -5
I am very familiar with he "New Beat" series of Zildjian. I think you are going to like the 13" Zildjian Hi-Hat cymbals.
I'm curious about the badges though: FYI; I normally use the serial numbers to track (trace) the history of the drum; to determine age, place of manufacture, and possibly previous owners. I have reference books on Rogers (old), Slingerland, Ludwig, and other brands. I am definitely going to have to consider serial numbers in a new light, if I am requested to authenticate any drum items. That's a real game changer.
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Post by Larry Madsen on Sept 14, 2021 8:34:13 GMT -5
I am definitely going to have to consider serial numbers in a new light, if I am requested to authenticate any drum items. That's a real game changer. Yes indeed. On Slingerland (probably others) the rivet ring holding it in would be key if it can be determined original and unaltered. On mine I am using a threaded eyelet. It's pretty obvious the badges have been removed ... and in my case completely replaced. My intent is only to create a unique custom kit, not to mis-represent anything. Edited to add: Many of my shells came to me with no badge at all. That need in itself lead me to look for badges that (relatively) match.
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Grizbear-NJ
Wholenote
"I'll do the BEATING around here"
Posts: 217
Age: 71
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Post by Grizbear-NJ on Sept 14, 2021 22:20:49 GMT -5
I understand and fully agree with you on your point about the badges. I did "refurbishing"; NOT restoration. My approach was different; I'll use "Rogers" drums as an example.
The original founder and manufacturer was Joseph H. Rogers; the company changed hands several times before it closed; and there were several "parts" contributors involved with each hand-off.
As an "Amateur" drum technician; I had to "date" a drum-set in order to obtain the right parts for a repair or modification. Some parts were interchangeable, some were not. I tried not to physically alter shells or hardware, unless I absolutely had to; because from my experience, it only caused problems down the road.
Rogers went thru a series of "Badges". Some were actually metal badges, and some were just stickers. To give you an idea: Rogers had the "Eagle Badge", the "Oval Badge", three different "Script Badges", and the "Big-R Badge" (some of them did have serial numbers). The "stickers" would identify the drum series, place and year, of manufacture. You would be surprised to find out the foreign companies that were involved as sub-contractors. Important information to know, to determine if you needed to use metric or american standard tools for repairs.
I won't bore you with details; but it was an interesting experience.
NOTE: My hat is off to you, because I consider what you have done with those shells as ART!
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