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Post by Larry Madsen on Jan 3, 2022 18:35:22 GMT -5
Car question for the guitar forum.  I need to extend the resistor wire to my coil on the Camaro. Tell me if my memory is correct. I recall once trying to solder a resistor wire and the solder just would not take hold. Anyone have knowledge to confirm of refute that recollection? I'm figuring to just add an extension to the end of the resistor wire to get another few inches of reach to the coil. I won't be shortening the resistor wire any so the resistance value should not be impacted. I like soldering any connections in these harnesses, so I don't have to worry about a crimp connector eventually failing. Just thought I would run this past some of you with related experience before I dig into the harness. |
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Post by K4 on Jan 3, 2022 20:39:11 GMT -5
Get rid of the resistor wire and run a ballast resistor.
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Post by Larry Madsen on Jan 3, 2022 20:48:09 GMT -5
Get rid of the resistor wire and run a ballast resistor. Sorry, it's there. No desire to chase another wire for 12V just so I can resist it back down.  Also no desire to add complexity and parts. |
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Post by K4 on Jan 3, 2022 21:33:23 GMT -5
Take power from where the resistance wire starts. Should be switched with a bypass. The resistance wires melted many wire harness's back in the day, no way I trust one that is 50+ years old. Just me. I believe the only way is to crimp. |
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Post by Larry Madsen on Jan 3, 2022 22:01:24 GMT -5
I believe the only way is to crimp. That is what memory is telling me. My other thought would be to simply replace the entire wire from the firewall plug with a new wire. This one apparently has been cut in the past, considering it's a bit short on reach. I tested the resistance when I went back to points and it came within the required range. What I am considering (after a little thought) is to join it with the 12v lead from the starter, then pigtail off there with a single lead to the coil. Would simplify the wiring up top (just one wire to the + side of coil) and would not change the circuit at all ... plus would keep that connection securely in a bundle that does not move around. |
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Post by K4 on Jan 3, 2022 22:18:42 GMT -5
You do want a full 12 volts to the coil when cranking the engine, that is the circuit I called the bypass. Reason for 2 wires on the + post.
Not sure how cold it gets in Vegas but without the bypass they don't like to start when temps hit the 20's
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Post by Larry Madsen on Jan 3, 2022 22:27:57 GMT -5
Yes I do.
It would still be 12v when cranking and about 8v when running ... The two wires would just connect (into one wire) several inches ahead of the coil.
Should not change the circuit activity at all.
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Post by K4 on Jan 3, 2022 22:33:04 GMT -5
The 12Volt wire comes from the starter solenoid energizer circuit.
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Post by Larry Madsen on Jan 3, 2022 22:34:25 GMT -5
The 12Volt wire comes from the starter solenoid energizer circuit. Yes indeed. Only hot while cranking. Once cranking ends the only power supply to my lead wire is the resisted voltage. Only difference is I would be making the connection ahead of the coil rather than two eyelets literally attaching at the coil. |
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Post by K4 on Jan 3, 2022 22:42:42 GMT -5
I think I understand what you want to do. Spice in after the resistance wire ends and only use 1 wire at the coil. Should work.
Still think I'd bolt a Chrysler ballast resistor to the firewall and run power from the bulkhead connector along with the starter. I just don't trust that resistance wire especially if it has been cut and spliced.
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Post by Larry Madsen on Jan 4, 2022 21:08:10 GMT -5
I made the switch today. I just laid the resistor wire out along the wire path and then cut the 12v wire from starter off at the resistor wire end point. Spliced the two together including an additional lead wire that will come up to the coil. I made it red, just to help me know for certain which goes where.
I do have a yellow tach prompt wire which goes to the negative side of the coil. These colors will help insure I don't get mixed up ... I'm susceptible to that sort of thing sometimes.
I'll also be replacing the temp sender wire, so I was going to break the tape on this harness no matter what. I had the machine shop drill and tap my heads for the proper opening for my temp sender. Chevy heads have the sender there form the factory. My aluminum Dart heads were drilled and tapped, but for 3/8". A factory sender is 1/2".
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