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Post by Tinkerer on Apr 12, 2022 15:44:36 GMT -5
I have a TC Electronic Spark mini boost pedal that has a white LED which is impossible to see in direct sunlight. I have other pedals on my board which have red LEDs in them, and those pedals I can see in direct sunlight. I have opened up the Spark mini, and it would be very easy to clip the white LED leads and solder in a red LED instead. Is this "safe" to do?
Thanks!!
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Post by LTB on Apr 12, 2022 15:58:54 GMT -5
That would depend on the voltage on the L.E.D. and the resistor value. In worst case it would blow the L.E.D. but should not effect the circuit. Also remove battery or disconnect external power source before you do this
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Post by strat62plyr on Apr 15, 2022 10:42:48 GMT -5
I would think that the lenses from a pair of 3D glasses would work. The red side of course.
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Post by LTB on Apr 15, 2022 17:28:55 GMT -5
I have an MXR Graphic EQ that has 6-8 blinding white LED’s
why on earth so they put those on things is beyond me. i cannot even look straight at it
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Post by Taildragger on Apr 15, 2022 22:42:56 GMT -5
You should've paid a few bucks more and gotten the ten band: counting the volume and gain sliders, it has twelve blinding blue LEDs...
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009
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Post by 009 on Apr 16, 2022 10:07:01 GMT -5
I'm thinking, and this would be my first choice, that there must be some red transparent fingernail polish. Just paint over the outside of the LED "lens." Still too bright? Add another coat of polish, etc.
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Post by theprofessor on Apr 17, 2022 8:31:33 GMT -5
Along 009’s idea, a quick swipe with a red or green permanent marker might also do the trick.
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Post by Leftee on Apr 17, 2022 8:57:04 GMT -5
I like the sharpie idea. The only caveat is they don’t always stick to certain plastics/surfaces. If it doesn’t, no harm done.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Apr 17, 2022 12:00:09 GMT -5
If you can find the schematic, it will tell you the voltage for the LED power...but it's probably around 3v max.
You can find out yourself by desoldering the existing LED and testing across its PC board pads with a meter set to read DC volts. BUT before you desolder it, measure the standoff height so you can install the replacement at the same height from the board.
Once you have the proper LED, make sure you install it the proper way 'round, because they are polarrized...meaning, the positive leg (the longer one) needs to be connected to the positive pad, and the negative leg (shorter one) needs to be on the neg pad for the LED to function.
If the PC board is not marked for polarity, your meter will tell you which pad is which.
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Post by LTB on Apr 17, 2022 12:51:42 GMT -5
You should've paid a few bucks more and gotten the ten band: counting the volume and gain sliders, it has twelve blinding blue LEDs... I did they are blinding blue. lol |
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Post by LTB on Apr 17, 2022 18:43:03 GMT -5
You should've paid a few bucks more and gotten the ten band: counting the volume and gain sliders, it has twelve blinding blue LEDs... I am memory deprived they are blue. |
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Post by Tinkerer on Apr 17, 2022 19:17:39 GMT -5
Thanks everyone!
LTB and Peegoo, I took the unit apart and found that with the LED leads clipped the voltage reading across the leads was 3.315vdc. With the LED in the circuit, the current reading was only 0.30mA and the voltage reading across the LED leads was 2.538VDC. I was surprised by the low current reading but confirmed it with another meter I have. I decided to try a green LED and it is bright enough and definitely more visible in bright ambient light situations.
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Post by LTB on Apr 18, 2022 1:20:01 GMT -5
Thanks everyone! LTB and Peegoo, I took the unit apart and found that with the LED leads clipped the voltage reading across the leads was 3.315vdc. With the LED in the circuit, the current reading was only 0.30mA and the voltage reading across the LED leads was 2.538VDC. I was surprised by the low current reading but confirmed it with another meter I have. I decided to try a green LED and it is bright enough and definitely more visible in bright ambient light situations. So let me see if we are on the same page. Verify the current is .0003amps (.30 ma) and not 3ma (.003 amps) or 30ma .030 amps) If it is extremely high brightness I am thinking .003 amps . 30ma is pretty high for L.E.D. ‘s they are typically 20ma or less. I guess it could be possible to operate at .3 ma but pretty low You could try a red L.E.D. . One of 3 things will happen A. won’t illuminate B. It will work C. It will kill the L.E.D. with any harm to the circuit |
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gbfun
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Post by gbfun on Apr 18, 2022 1:54:57 GMT -5
Geez...I have a bandaid over the LED on a computer monitor, duct tape over the LED on an amp, and can't stand my other LEDs I haven't covered yet, unless they're really small. I bet in a decade they'll be saying intense LEDs cause eye damage. You heard it here first ! Maybe.  |
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Post by Leftee on Apr 18, 2022 9:16:01 GMT -5
Geez...I have a bandaid over the LED on a computer monitor, duct tape over the LED on an amp, and can't stand my other LEDs I haven't covered yet, unless they're really small. I bet in a decade they'll be saying intense LEDs cause eye damage. You heard it here first ! Maybe. We have a bandaid over the LEDs of the alarm system panel in our bedroom. Otherwise they’re way to bright in the night. |
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Post by Tinkerer on Apr 18, 2022 12:00:01 GMT -5
Thanks LTB, the reading on my meter set to the milliamp range was 00.30
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Post by LTB on Apr 19, 2022 1:01:23 GMT -5
Thanks LTB, the reading on my meter set to the milliamp range was 00.30 Curious, how were you reading current? Without the L.E.D. In place and connecting to the L.E.D. pads? If so you would not be taking into consideration of the voltage drop acrossed the L.E.D. device which would lower the current to some degree. When the L.E.D. is out of the circuit it is approx 3 volts and with it in the circuit 2.538 volts dropped across it. So your current would be about 86 % of the current rating (L.E.D. voltage drop of .462 vdc)
On one of my comments I meant to say It would kill the L.E.D. with no harm to the circuit. Why don't you try the magic marker suggestion first |
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Post by Tinkerer on Apr 19, 2022 10:28:52 GMT -5
Thanks LTB. I unsoldered the positive voltage lead of the LED and attached one of the DVM leads to that leg of the LED and the other DVM lead to the positive voltage connection on the board.
The issue I'm trying to solve is not too much brightness - it is that the white color LED was not visible in direct sunlight. I'm wanting to change the color and have a level of brightness that will allow me to more easily see that the pedal is on.
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Post by LTB on Apr 19, 2022 17:11:47 GMT -5
Ok then go ahead and try a red L.E.D. then
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Post by LTB on Apr 19, 2022 17:18:43 GMT -5
Ok then go ahead and try a red L.E.D. then.
Is your's miniature or standard size. Be sure and check forward operating voltage, current rating and how bright it is.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on May 3, 2022 8:58:24 GMT -5
Many super bright LEDs have a lens on the top (front) to collimate the light into a beam, almost like a laser.
You can make these far more visible by carefully de-glossing the top of the LED with a little piece of 600-grit paper or Scotchbrite pad. It spreads the light out and makes the dome glow, rather than cast a beam of light.
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Post by LTB on May 5, 2022 16:32:56 GMT -5
Many super bright LEDs have a lens on the top (front) to collimate the light into a beam, almost like a laser. You can make these far more visible by carefully de-glossing the top of the LED with a little piece of 600-grit paper or Scotchbrite pad. It spreads the light out and makes the dome glow, rather than cast a beam of light. That is a novel idea Mr Peegoo! Thanks |
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Post by Tinkerer on May 5, 2022 19:35:13 GMT -5
The green LEDs seem to be working well - visible in sunlight and not too bright in lower light settings. Thanks everyone!!
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