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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Nov 5, 2022 10:26:03 GMT -5
This is a project that has been simmering in my walnut-sized brain for about two years because my coffee table is a cheepo thing that came from Ikea in a flat box about 20 years ago. It looked better in the box than it did after assembly, and it occurred to me about two years ago that I can get rid of it. It's weird how the things we get used to seeing somehow become 'permanent' even though we can change them. Time for Peegoo to dispense with his coffee table existential nihilism  While at my local hardwood supplier I found a live-edge solid slab of canary 18" wide and 1.25" thick. I trimmed the ends to 36" long. I glued strips of .020" pecan veneer (pecan pie has a guitar connection) into the fret slots of two reject PRS fretboards and routed a recess in the slab for them down the middle and glued 'em in end to end. The abalone birds are hazy in the pics below due to being sanded to 320 but they will pop back to life when the clear goes on.  |
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Post by Larry Madsen on Nov 5, 2022 10:33:21 GMT -5
Very, very nice and ingenious thinking.
Brings a whole new thought process to “double neck”
😀
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Nov 5, 2022 10:43:07 GMT -5
^^^Well that's the name of it: double-neck table!
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Post by Leftee on Nov 5, 2022 10:48:56 GMT -5
😎😎😎
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Nov 5, 2022 11:51:48 GMT -5
I'm impressed you aren't getting bleed - dark woods' dust likes to work its way into light woods when you sand them together. I guess ebony is the biggest offender so that helps a bit, but I feel like if I tried that there would be purple swirls on the edges near the fingerboards.
The routing is impressive. Those lines aren't straight, though I guess if those fingerboards never made it onto a neck you at least have some straight parts for some fences.
Peghead veneer coasters?
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Post by Ricketi on Nov 5, 2022 12:04:16 GMT -5
Fret not! That is cool! nice work
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Nov 5, 2022 12:49:31 GMT -5
I'm impressed you aren't getting bleed - dark woods' dust likes to work its way into light woods when you sand them together. I guess ebony is the biggest offender so that helps a bit, but I feel like if I tried that there would be purple swirls on the edges near the fingerboards. The routing is impressive. Those lines aren't straight, though I guess if those fingerboards never made it onto a neck you at least have some straight parts for some fences. Peghead veneer coasters? Cheers! Regarding bleed...I learned some tricks at PRS. It's a curious thing because I've been a woodworker most of my life and I walked in like a dork, thinking I knew most of what I'd need to know. Not hardly! If you're not going to apply stain after sanding, use a thinned clear sealer prior to initial sanding. It closes pores and prevents wood dust from becoming trapped in the grain. It's one of the secrets that gets their figured tops to look extremely 3-D. I routed each line individually (four slots), running the router base along an aluminum straight edge clamped to the wood. After they were done, I went back and free-handed the wood out of the middle. And yes, coasters are in work  |
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Nov 5, 2022 13:30:03 GMT -5
Oooh, that is brilliant! That opens a whole world of possibilities for inlay/purfling/etc work, too.
When you say "stain" do you include dyes? The most vivid tops I've seen usually are using a bleach and then a dye, I've been assuming that is what PRS has been up to with some of their tops lately, but now I'm not as sure. (If you're violating trade secret documents at this point, just tell me to stop asking questions.)
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Nov 5, 2022 13:58:11 GMT -5
There really are no secrets. No bleach used.
But another very cool trick is to wipe down the wood with water before applying stain/dye, because it opens up the pores and creates far more grain contrast.
An interesting thing that I never realized comes from the old woodworker's trick of wiping the wood with a damp rag to raise the grain before final sanding. I've used this all my life to get a smooth finish, but never knew a second wipe does not raise the grain.
Example: using a ROS, sand to 220, follow with 320, finish with hand sanding 320 with the grain. This removes all sanding scratches. Blow dust off. Wipe with a damp rag to raise the grain and allow to dry. Hand sand again with 320 and blow dust off.
Here comes the magic: use a hand sprayer with a fine water mist to wet the surface and allow to dry. The wood remains smooth. Apply stain/dye.
Yes, you CAN teach an old dawg new tricks.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Nov 10, 2022 11:02:59 GMT -5
Breakfast of Champions. Good morning.  |
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