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Post by HeavyDuty on Nov 8, 2022 8:39:39 GMT -5
How do y’all do it? What works well for you?
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Nov 8, 2022 9:19:41 GMT -5
I've done dremel/felt wheel/polishing compound after taping off the board, I've used Stewmac fret erasers using their individual fret shield. But these days I use a set of micro mesh pads rated 1500-8000 (correction: 12000). I don't think that rating corresponds to paper grit as the 1500 is way more abrasive than 1500 grit paper. I got the set from Klingspor's online after ordering some lacquer. I can't remember if they were a courtesy inclusion or if I paid for them, but I think I'll stick with micromesh. Works great on polishing a nut too.
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DrKev
Wholenote
It's just a guitar, it's not rocket science.
Posts: 418
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Post by DrKev on Nov 8, 2022 14:12:31 GMT -5
Micro mesh does a great job with litte effort. I have a fret eraser which is fine for a quick job but it's not as good as micro mesh for a nice shine. Dremela or hand + polisging compound probably gives the best final visual result but I'm not sure it really necessary for everyone.
Steel wol can do a fine job BUT I stopped using it some time ago because it's a pain in the ass cleaning little shavings everywhere. I've never had it mess up a pickup or electronics (thanks to careful masking) but why take the risk when something easier does as good a job?
I will take a mooment to suggest you have TWO sets of micromesh - one for doing metals (e.g. frets, steel saddles) and one for doing plastics (nuts, acoustic saddles).
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Post by HeavyDuty on Nov 8, 2022 14:30:55 GMT -5
Thanks, guys - are you using the foam backed micro mesh or the paper type?
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Post by Auf Kiltre on Nov 8, 2022 17:27:45 GMT -5
I use the paper micromesh that came with a foam block. I suppose this is meant for lacquer finishing but it has worked for me doing frets. I have a piece of round wood that I cut from the end of a small hammer. I grooved a slot down the center and wrap the mm around it. I really only use that contraption after a fret leveling and use it for any deeper scratches. And it goes without saying, but tape up the fretboard.
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Nov 8, 2022 19:46:54 GMT -5
How elaborate do you want to be? How un-polished are they now?
You can use gradually finer sand paper to smooth them out, like after a fret dress. If the fingerboard is finished or if you want to go along the fret (and risk running the wood against the grain) the fingerboard should be taped off. If not, you can just do it bare.
Finishing with 0000 steel wool is enough for most people. If the debris causes a problem, get a decent brand (the stuff at Home Despot seems okay, I forget what it is called) and unroll the pads before using. Yes, they unroll. Find the end and turn it into a long strip. Have a shop vac handy, and maybe an air hose after.
For a step above the micromesh works, or you can get pick up a "finger nail buffer" at the grocery store or pharmacy which will work great. That'll give you a quick way to not mess up your micromesh that you want to save for finishes, or for nuts and saddles.
When I do refrets, I tape it all off so I can run fine grits along the fret to get all of the lines out, and we have a small stationary buffer devoted to metal in our shop, so they get a mirror shine. I started doing this for my stainless steel refrets (necessary with SS if you don't want the fret to grind through strings), and I ended up doing it for all of them because it adds some nice pizazz. I have dremels and a Foredom, but the stationary buffer is better.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Nov 8, 2022 20:45:49 GMT -5
Call me crazy, but I still use 0000 steel wool. Make a mirror shine. If you want to really polish up the ends of the frets, modify a steel fretboard shield by putting a 90-degree bend in in so it provides a little 1/16" window on the end. Hold this in place and scrub away at the end of the fret with no worry of damaging the finish or the fingerboard.  |
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