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Post by Tinkerer on Mar 17, 2023 19:45:26 GMT -5
I'm messing around with building a bare bones single pickup guitar with a Mojotone Goldfoil pickup in the bridge. I'm building it without any controls, but I want to compensate for the tonal effect of wide-open volume and tone controls. I found a reference online that some Teisco guitars with Gold Foil pickups used a 100k ohm volume pot and a 500k ohm tone pot with a .05cap. Am I correct in my understanding that with both the volume pot and tone pots wide open, the total parallel resistance the pickup "sees" is 83k ohms? If so, would a 83k ohm resistor between the pickup hot lead and ground along with a .05 cap between the pickup hot lead and the non ground side of the resistor achieve the tonal effect of a wide open 100k volume and wide open 500k tone control with a .05 cap?
Thank you!
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DrKev
Wholenote
It's just a guitar, it's not rocket science.
Posts: 418
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Post by DrKev on Mar 18, 2023 10:07:12 GMT -5
Not quite.
Yes, you can replace the two parallel potentiometers of 100k and 500k with a single fixed resistor of 83k. But when the tone pot is open the cap is effectively out of circuit (because it's in series with the full 500k of its pot). So, you do not need the cap but I doubt you'll hear any difference one way or the other.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Mar 18, 2023 12:13:35 GMT -5
I think about this stuff as follows: the signal doesn't travel through the volume or tone pots. However, everything in a passive guitar circuit presents impedance to the signal (AC current). This is an important distinction from resistance because resistance is applied to DC current; impedance is a combination of Ohms resistance and inductive and capacitive reactance to AC current. There's a lot going on. Factor in things like small variances (inconsistencies) between identical pickups, potentiometer tolerances, solder connections, the wire used, the cable between the guitar and the amp, the amp and the speaker, the guitar's construction, the strings used (and many other things). Any one of these single factors becomes extremely trivial to the overall tone of any guitar/amp scenario. But all of them in combination do contribute to the tone of a pickup. My point is tone is a thing that happens, and whether or not you like it also depends on a vast array of imprecise things, e.g., psychoacoustics, if you ate or missed breakfast, or how unhappy you are about that new door ding on your car. It happens to me. A lot! What is your goal of inserting something in the circuit that does not add--but subtracts? It's like watering down whiskey, or building a street rod and installing a restrictor plate on the intake manifold. If you're doing a build with no controls, why not wire the pickup directly to the jack? I mention this because that is the intent of devices such as the no-load pot and the blower switch. Many guitarists try to achieve a sound via comparative analysis: "I want to sound like Duane Allman at The Fillmore East," or Townshend Live at Leeds, or [pick a record]. It's the easiest way to get there. But what really is "good tone?" Back when Teisco was making guitars in the 60s and 70s, gold foil pickups were junk! About the only players using them were kids, or adults that couldn't afford a higher-end guitar. Fast-forward to today, and now gold foils are A Thing; you can spend $$$ on one from a boo-teek maker. All those original "junk" gold foils from the past do make a desirable tone, and they do sound fantastic. I can attest to this because I built a guitar with a pair from the 1960s. The goofy thing is they sounded fantastic back in the 1960s too. Apologies for the random string of thoughts on this. I'm not implying you're wrong to go about this the way you're planning. Like you, I love to experiment with circuits, functionality, aesthetics, etc. It's a drug. I just wanted to include some perspectives you may not have considered. Cheers! Geno
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Mar 18, 2023 12:26:00 GMT -5
You can also get a bunch of resistors (and caps if you want) cheap and some alligator clips. You're on the right track to understand what you're trying to accomplish. You can try a bunch of things for less than $10 and tell us about it. Hearing it, especially with quick a/b comparisons through your favorite amp, is worth way more than anything any of us can describe for you.
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Mar 18, 2023 12:33:30 GMT -5
I think about this stuff as follows: the signal doesn't travel through the volume or tone pots. However, everything in a passive guitar circuit presents impedance to the signal (AC current). This is an important distinction from resistance because resistance is applied to DC current; impedance is a combination of Ohms resistance and inductive and capacitive reactance to AC current. There's a lot going on. Factor in things like small variances (inconsistencies) between identical pickups, potentiometer tolerances, solder connections, the wire used, the cable between the guitar and the amp, the amp and the speaker, the guitar's construction, the strings used (and many other things). Any one of these single factors becomes extremely trivial to the overall tone of any guitar/amp scenario. But all of them in combination do contribute to the tone of a pickup. My point is tone is a thing that happens, and whether or not you like it also depends on a vast array of imprecise things, e.g., psychoacoustics, if you ate or missed breakfast, or how unhappy you are about that new door ding on your car. It happens to me. A lot! What is your goal of inserting something in the circuit that does not add--but subtracts? It's like watering down whiskey, or building a street rod and installing a restrictor plate on the intake manifold. If you're doing a build with no controls, why not wire the pickup directly to the jack? I mention this because that is the intent of devices such as the no-load pot and the blower switch. Many guitarists try to achieve a sound via comparative analysis: "I want to sound like Duane Allman at The Fillmore East," or Townshend Live at Leeds, or [pick a record]. It's the easiest way to get there. But what really is "good tone?" Back when Teisco was making guitars in the 60s and 70s, gold foil pickups were junk! About the only players using them were kids, or adults that couldn't afford a higher-end guitar. Fast-forward to today, and now gold foils are A Thing; you can spend $$$ on one from a boo-teek maker. All those original "junk" gold foils from the past do make a desirable tone, and they do sound fantastic. I can attest to this because I built a guitar with a pair from the 1960s. The goofy thing is they sounded fantastic back in the 1960s too. Apologies for the random string of thoughts on this. I'm not implying you're wrong to go about this the way you're planning. Like you, I love to experiment with circuits, functionality, aesthetics, etc. It's a drug. I just wanted to include some perspectives you may not have considered. Cheers! Geno
Yeah, there were all kinds of 50s and 60s pickups that sounded good, but usually were in lack luster guitars (or, "only a mother could love" sorts of guitars), and lots of good pickup designs suffer because you can't get them to correct heights without modification. p-90s are sometimes in this category, too.
I've come to think that revisiting that would be the closest we'll get to a "perfect" pickup. Many were closer to the lap steel pickups. They had a big sound, but never sounded "hot" like overwound versions of other pickups. Some of the old Broadcaster pickups did this well, too. It kinda breaks the whole wind-less-for-this-sound-and-more-for-this-sound rut that pickup makers get themselves stuck in.
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Post by Tinkerer on Mar 18, 2023 13:02:33 GMT -5
Thank you guys!!
Peegoo, as I read your reply, I found myself thinking (and smiling) about my dad and his love of golf and his endless pursuit of the perfect swing. I can remember many conversations with him where he would tell me that he had finally found the right technique or combination of factors, and then two weeks later he would be unsatisfied and searching again. I do the same thing with my guitars!
Your question about why I am adding something that subtracts got me thinking about how best to define what I am searching for tone wise. I think the best way I can describe it is that there is a nasal quality that I doesn't sound good to me and that I would like to subtract/"filter". I've tried wiring guitars without control pots, and tried different amp settings, etc, but haven't been able to find the right balance between getting rid of those nasal frequencies while not being too bright or losing tone and clarity, etc. Part of me wonders if this just how bridge and middle pickups sound in my hands as all of my guitars seem to have this nasally quality when I am playing those position pickups - regardless of whether hum bucker, single coil, P-90 etc. For this guitar, the one thing I have not yet tried is going with lower impedance values like some of the component values that Teisco used (though I know Teisco used a bunch of different pot values). I thought the lower impedance values might be worth trying and seeing how that then fits with what I can adjust on my amp, etc.
Thanks again guys!!
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Mar 18, 2023 13:45:47 GMT -5
Another way to approach this: if you have a component in the tone that you find objectionable or want to modify, the best way to address it is to identify it and then manipulate it to your satisfaction. The best way is with a DAW like Reaper, Audacity, etc. They have a frequency analyzer that shows the entire audio spectrum. Replicate the problem and record it. Play it back and look for a peak or peaks centered in the neighborhood of 3kHz (between 1kHz to 4.5kHz). Use the included graphic or parametric EQ to bring those peaks down and listen to the playback. Once you identify and correct the tone you can apply a tone control to that specific 'peaky' area and bring it down. You could install a mini-pot and a cap in the guitar, preset it, and button it up as a semi-permanent solution. Obviously a passive audio filter like a pot and a cap is not as surgical as an active para/graphic EQ, but you can get close.
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Post by Tinkerer on Mar 18, 2023 19:37:32 GMT -5
Thanks for this Peegoo. I ran the test that you described and it seems like the frequency I'm hearing is @1.2k. What I found as I reduced those frequencies though in my DAW's EQ, is that reducing them rendered the overall sound less "lively" and was not an improvement. I have now tried a number of setups and it seems that the pickup straight to output jack, no controls, no fixed resistor and cap, is the best overall sound.
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Mar 18, 2023 19:39:31 GMT -5
Can you experiment with pickup height? Otherwise full sounding pickups can sound pretty nasal if they're too low.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Mar 18, 2023 22:58:11 GMT -5
Thanks for this Peegoo. I ran the test that you described and it seems like the frequency I'm hearing is @1.2k. What I found as I reduced those frequencies though in my DAW's EQ, is that reducing them rendered the overall sound less "lively" and was not an improvement. I have now tried a number of setups and it seems that the pickup straight to output jack, no controls, no fixed resistor and cap, is the best overall sound. It warms my heart that you went through this exercise! That "lively" descriptor is perfect. Discovering something on my own, rather than blindly following goofy Internet folklore or trends (Bad Monkey, anyone?) is the pathway to happiness for me as a player. Oh boy, here comes a total digression. There's a very weird thing about how we hear sound: what we think sounds good is often bad, and what we think is bad is often actually good. I learned this years ago in my gigging days, and it was a total mind blow. Like most guitar players I would tweak my sounds at home, get to the gig, set up, and play with minimal adjustments to anything but my overall volume. At one gig the club provided a sound guy, and at sound check he came over and asked me if he could tweak my amp. Sure...I'm just the guitar player. So he dropped the lows to almost nothing and pushed the upper mids. Not a sound I liked. Then he went back to the board, made some tweaks there, and we went on with the show. But it simply worked; the guitar was cutting through the mix without having to push the volume up. I didn't have to stand in the beam of my amp to hear myself. After the gig the bass player and drummer commented I never sounded so good. Later, I plugged in the amp at home and the tone was pretty shrill sounding. Thin and nasal. But none of the controls had moved since the gig; my amp traveled in a road case. This is when the mind blow happened: so THAT's why so many guitar players are almost always too dang loud! It's precisely why guitarists cannot hear themselves...they turn up the volume so they can hear, and now the bass player can't hear so well, and the drummer starts hitting harder, and the PA gets pushed up near max volume, and things are completely out of control. If you've ever played a jam you know exactly what this is. If you've ever been in a bar where a weekend warrior band is playing, you know exactly what this is. It's because guitar amps need to be adjusted to occupy a space of their own in the frequency spectrum. Stay in your own lane and don't compete with the bass and drums. Stay in the upper mids and the guitar cuts through like a hot knife through butter. Thank You, Sound Guy Whose Name is Lost in the Fog of History. When we play at home, we love that full-range tone with plenty of low-end thump. In a band situation, all it does is make for a sludgy low-end 'mung' sound in the room, and nobody can hear themselves think. If you're in a band like The Melvins, sludge and mung is good! In most other situations, not so much. In a recording, this usually results in having to overcompress a lot of the tracks, and that "lively" sound gets squished flat. So when players ask me how to cut through a mix without being loud, I show them this.
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Post by Tinkerer on Mar 18, 2023 23:19:09 GMT -5
Thanks Funky - I think I have the pickup height set pretty well. It is a surface mount pickup, but I shimmed it with a tilt so that the high E string side is closer to the string for better string to string volume balance. When fretted at the last fret the high E string is very close maybe a hair over 1/64" and the low E is 3/32". This is quite a bit closer than the 1/8" starting point recommended for these pickups, but to my ear this gives a fuller, better sound.
Peegoo, thank you for sharing that story - you articulated something that I need to remind myself of. The feedback I get from my bandmates is that this guitar sounds really good in our mix. I think I need to learn to leave well enough alone!!!
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Post by Tinkerer on Mar 18, 2023 23:52:36 GMT -5
flic.kr/ps/3YtooLHere is the guitar in question. I made it out of roasted pine and attempted to do a hand applied sun burst finish with some Unicorn Spit paints and Wipe on Poly. This started out with just a hum bucker in the middle position, I then added a neck pickup, and finally decided to just go with the single Goldfoil in the bridge. That left me with some holes in the front of the guitar. I decided to cover those with a 45rpm single. This is where the story gets interesting. I have The Clash's promo 45 that Epic records put out with "Train in vain" on the A side and "London Calling" on the B side. I did not want to sacrifice that 45 for this, but I was able to scan and recreate the labels adding the wood grain in the center. I made up (2) using 45's that I was willing to sacrifice and my recreated labels. I put "Train in Vain" on the front of the guitar and "London Calling" on the back. "Train in Vain" is one of my all time favorite songs. When it first came out I made a 120 minute cassette tape of nothing but that song repeated over and over. That was the sound track that I typed papers to for a whole semester.
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Mar 19, 2023 5:47:59 GMT -5
That is a great idea: recreate the label, rather than kill the actual record. That woodgrain in the center is printed? You matched it really well to the guitar body.
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Post by Tinkerer on Mar 19, 2023 9:26:38 GMT -5
I used the app Canva to make the label. I scanned both sides of the actual 45 and then used that image for one layer of the label. I took a photo of the lower back portion of the guitar body and was able to adjust the tint and coloration of that photo in Canva to match the wood grain for both the front and back of the guitar. That adjusted photo became the bottom layer of the label. The label is printed on vinyl sticker "paper" and should hold up quite well.
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Mar 19, 2023 9:54:24 GMT -5
Thanks for this Peegoo. I ran the test that you described and it seems like the frequency I'm hearing is @1.2k. What I found as I reduced those frequencies though in my DAW's EQ, is that reducing them rendered the overall sound less "lively" and was not an improvement. I have now tried a number of setups and it seems that the pickup straight to output jack, no controls, no fixed resistor and cap, is the best overall sound. It warms my heart that you went through this exercise! That "lively" descriptor is perfect. Discovering something on my own, rather than blindly following goofy Internet folklore or trends (Bad Monkey, anyone?) is the pathway to happiness for me as a player. Oh boy, here comes a total digression. There's a very weird thing about how we hear sound: what we think sounds good is often bad, and what we think is bad is often actually good. I learned this years ago in my gigging days, and it was a total mind blow. Like most guitar players I would tweak my sounds at home, get to the gig, set up, and play with minimal adjustments to anything but my overall volume. At one gig the club provided a sound guy, and at sound check he came over and asked me if he could tweak my amp. Sure...I'm just the guitar player. So he dropped the lows to almost nothing and pushed the upper mids. Not a sound I liked. Then he went back to the board, made some tweaks there, and we went on with the show. But it simply worked; the guitar was cutting through the mix without having to push the volume up. I didn't have to stand in the beam of my amp to hear myself. After the gig the bass player and drummer commented I never sounded so good. Later, I plugged in the amp at home and the tone was pretty shrill sounding. Thin and nasal. But none of the controls had moved since the gig; my amp traveled in a road case. This is when the mind blow happened: so THAT's why so many guitar players are almost always too dang loud! It's precisely why guitarists cannot hear themselves...they turn up the volume so they can hear, and now the bass player can't hear so well, and the drummer starts hitting harder, and the PA gets pushed up near max volume, and things are completely out of control. If you've ever played a jam you know exactly what this is. If you've ever been in a bar where a weekend warrior band is playing, you know exactly what this is. It's because guitar amps need to be adjusted to occupy a space of their own in the frequency spectrum. Stay in your own lane and don't compete with the bass and drums. Stay in the upper mids and the guitar cuts through like a hot knife through butter. Thank You, Sound Guy Whose Name is Lost in the Fog of History. When we play at home, we love that full-range tone with plenty of low-end thump. In a band situation, all it does is make for a sludgy low-end 'mung' sound in the room, and nobody can hear themselves think. If you're in a band like The Melvins, sludge and mung is good! In most other situations, not so much. In a recording, this usually results in having to overcompress a lot of the tracks, and that "lively" sound gets squished flat. So when players ask me how to cut through a mix without being loud, I show them this.
This reminds of two things I've noticed over the years.
First, people try using words to describe what they are hearing before they have spent enough time listening critically to figure out what is going on. Most people just describe in terms of EQ. One of my favorite examples of it gone wrong is when a guitar has a really harsh upper midrange and people hear it as "bright", when the problem is there aren't enough highs to even it out, or the resonant peak is too low. I had one client with a couple Carvins - pickups a bit hotter than vintage, and they use .047mf caps. Swap out for .022 and it sounds better. It made it "brighter", but it didn't sound as harsh. Too many people design rigs/circuits/whatever entirely a priori without testing. Things like fast attack or slow attack, or really talking about envelope beyond the Spinal-Tap-esque obsession with sustain just doesn't come up as much.
Second, instruments/rigs for the past 30 years have been designed in isolation of their intended function. An acoustic guitar is voiced to sound pretty when gently strumming a couple open chords and it'll sound great in the showroom or on a youtube demo, but try playing with your friends and it suddenly sounds thin and can't break through. Or, you try playing a whole song start to finish and you find it doesn't sound right at all dynamic levels or in all fingerboard positions. Instruments in a band get tweaked to have more high end from a bass, more low end from the guitar, more everything from the drums, and they can't separate sonically, and when that happens volume wars are inevitable. You're always either under the mix or over it, never in it. This is, in my experience, the biggest difference between "vintage" and "modern".
As an old curmudgeon in the industry I wish there would be a new generation that will design instruments that has a better grasp on these things. There are glimmers of hope... some builders seem to really get it. I'll take my medicine and go back to my room now.
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Mar 19, 2023 9:59:32 GMT -5
Thanks Funky - I think I have the pickup height set pretty well. It is a surface mount pickup, but I shimmed it with a tilt so that the high E string side is closer to the string for better string to string volume balance. When fretted at the last fret the high E string is very close maybe a hair over 1/64" and the low E is 3/32". This is quite a bit closer than the 1/8" starting point recommended for these pickups, but to my ear this gives a fuller, better sound. Peegoo, thank you for sharing that story - you articulated something that I need to remind myself of. The feedback I get from my bandmates is that this guitar sounds really good in our mix. I think I need to learn to leave well enough alone!!! Yeah, you're not going to get any closer than that.
In my experience, "too close" usually only happens when the string hits the pickup or the magnetic field changes the string vibration. One exception is when you get some kind of ceramic magnet monstrosity and you just need the pickup to chill the F out, because the lightest pick attack sounds like a scream. It has been a while since I've played with a gold foil pickup, but I really doubt they are hot enough to have that problem. I could be wrong and if you have easy to remove shims it might be worth trying if you're feeling up to your namesake, but I wouldn't expect much of it.
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Wrnchbndr
Wholenote
Posts: 353
Formerly Known As: WRNCHBNDR
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Post by Wrnchbndr on Mar 28, 2023 10:53:23 GMT -5
What a great discussion full of true things. Tone happens.
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