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Post by Taildragger on Apr 4, 2023 12:15:25 GMT -5
The lady herein gots stones:
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Post by Peegoo 🏁 on Apr 5, 2023 6:14:49 GMT -5
WOW. BIG waves.
For as rough as the seas were, those were pretty clean breaks.
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Post by Taildragger on Apr 5, 2023 11:17:10 GMT -5
Watching the rock boils will tell you part of the reason it breaks that way.
I'm amazed that more people aren't seriously injured or killed surfing these "slab" breaks. During my own surfing prime, we steered clear of such places. Pipeline was about as dangerous a break as was being ridden at that time.
Back when I lived in SF during the early 1970s and before Jeff Clark pioneered the spot, I "discovered" Mavericks for myself (as I'm sure many other surfers looking for new spots did). I watched it periodically for several months from the bluff and came to the conclusion that it was too dangerous to ride, an opinion which I still hold. True, equipment has evolved substantially since that time and made it more "doable", but it's still a big gamble. People have died, had "close calls" and been seriously injured out there.
Like the gambling addicts in another, recent thread, guys who ride big waves in these sketchy conditions are adrenaline junkies who live for "the rush".
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Post by Taildragger on Apr 5, 2023 12:08:55 GMT -5
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Post by Taildragger on Apr 5, 2023 13:46:14 GMT -5
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Post by Taildragger on Apr 19, 2023 12:45:34 GMT -5
Some vicious pits in this one. The wipeout on the wave that starts @ about 3:08 is brutal: watch for the slo-mo replay where the guy get sucked over the falls onto the reef:
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