|
|
Post by slacker 🐨 on Apr 18, 2023 9:09:51 GMT -5
I have a spot in my finished basement where there's a support post. Unfortunately, it's at the corner of my home bar, making the seat around the corner basically unusable. I'm seriously considering remodeling the bar from it's current "pseudo bar that's more like a kitchen" into a true bar with a british pub feel. I'd love to get rid of the support post.
Any idea what to expect on that? There's already a soffit for some duct work so having it lower than the ceiling isn't an issue, but it's possible the duct work may interfere.
Thoughts?
|
|
|
|
Post by Laker on Apr 18, 2023 10:33:04 GMT -5
I have a spot in my finished basement where there's a support post. Unfortunately, it's at the corner of my home bar, making the seat around the corner basically unusable. I'm seriously considering remodeling the bar from it's current "pseudo bar that's more like a kitchen" into a true bar with a british pub feel. I'd love to get rid of the support post. Any idea what to expect on that? There's already a soffit for some duct work so having it lower than the ceiling isn't an issue, but it's possible the duct work may interfere. Thoughts? If there is no no way to rearrange/work around your support an estimate from a structural engineer will let you know if the cost is worth removing that support. |
|
|
|
Post by Larry Madsen on Apr 18, 2023 10:50:50 GMT -5
I went through a whole bunch of this with my 6 year long remodel all documented at the "Old Place". My support issues were all encompassing as I was going from an asphalt shingle roof to a concrete tile roof, plus adding a shortage room in the attic space. As mentioned, you will want to involve a structural engineer and you would want to get the proper permits. The beam size would depend on what type of beam you end up using. It would probably be "glue-lam" or "micro-lam" type beams for spanning a room or more. Micro-lam being the strongest. The beam must land on columns which are anchored to footings in the earth. I had to cut walls, cut concrete, dig footings, pour footings, install columns then rebuild the wall (all of this inside Queenie's house  ) ... in order to land my beams. Some of the work will depend on things above it in the space. The roof (in your case the floor above) is going to be the thing needing support. While the post is out the structure needs to be held up while you make the swap. The structural engineer will determine the required size of: Footing, column, beam, or the reinforcement of an existing footing if necessary. The thing about this is, none of the materials to accomplish this are terribly expensive. It's the labor that will eat up your wallet. I did all the work myself, so I got off cheap. Examples: One of the column/footings Wall torn out"  Footings begin May 26 2011 (6) by Larry Madsen, on Flickr Same footing dig and prep ready for inspection  F4 footing ready for inspection by Larry Madsen, on Flickr Column installed:  Steve's room column by Larry Madsen, on Flickr |
|
) ... in order to land my beams.