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Post by bluzcat on Aug 13, 2023 13:38:18 GMT -5
Background: Both truss rod nuts on my Strat Plus and 50th Anniversary Strats have rounded and allen wrenches will no longer work. I picked up the gripper from StewMac and even that was defeated. Reluctantly, I decided it was time to bite the bullet (or non-Bullet in this case ) and go to town. The Plus was up first. I watched the videos, read websites, etc., and removed the plug readily, but could not get the truss rod nut to come out. After a day or two of frustration I realized that the LSR nut was holding it back. When Fender routed the slot for the LSR, they created a hole in the fretboard below the LSR nut, sort of like a sunroof over the truss rod cavity. The LSR seemed to sit low enough to trap the truss nut in the cavity. Once I removed the LSR the truss rod nut came out. Phase 1 compete. The walnut plug cracked when I removed it so I have ordered a new walnut dowel. The new dowel now pokes in through this "sunroof" and by looking at the old one, I can see I will need to file a shelf in the back of the plug so the LSR will lay flat. It appears they cut the slot at the factory with the dowel in place. Now to my questions: Should I tighten the truss rod nut as much as I can (hand tight) so I can get the right length of the dowel? Should I glue the dowel in place and then shape it to the headstock, or get close with a sander, then glue in and finish scraping/sanding to shape? I've seen both mentioned in tutorials. I'm confident someone here has tackled this and I appreciate any assistance!
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Aug 15, 2023 20:43:36 GMT -5
Question 1: I wouldn't tighten it all the way. As long as you can get the dowel in enough it shouldn't matter. The dowel will only have a function if you need to force a back bow into the neck, which you will probably never have to do.
Question 2: Your call. If it was me, I'd put it in full size, and I'm pretty comfortable using a sharp chisel bevel side down to hog away excess material without touching the finish. You need to have some experience with chisels to do this so you don't slip and you don't snap a piece off instead of slicing it back. If you're good with a rotary tool, you could try that, too.
I don't see much advantage to a pre-trim, and there are a couple ways it could go wrong, if you end up taping it in a bit too far, or you don't have enough material to tap it and it won't go in all the way.
Getting it close and tidying it up when the original look is supposed to be finished over is the hard part. In our shop we usually carefully scrape/sand it back and do a super glue touch up. Ultimately this part is cosmetic, so whatever you want is fine. You could even just make sure the maple is touched up, and leave the walnut raw if you wanted.
Also, get some dry lube on that new truss rod nut before it is in there permanently. Door-Ease is my preferred stuff, Castrol makes a similar all purpose car grease. Lots of things work... just nothing runny.
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Post by bluzcat on Aug 16, 2023 17:28:07 GMT -5
Thank you for the help- I’ve created the flat area for the LSR, and will glue it in next, and take my time. Would Vaseline work on the truss rod nut?
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Aug 17, 2023 20:08:50 GMT -5
Vaseline would probably work... it gets kinda runny when it is warm, so maybe not my first choice? Maybe fine if used sparingly. If I had to choose among things available at a grocery store, I'd probably find the cheapest old style chapstick I could find... which is basically vaseline anyway, but seems to not get runny at higher temperatures. My local Ace Hardware has Door-Ease in stock, so maybe check that as well.
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Post by bluzcat on Aug 17, 2023 21:24:49 GMT -5
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Post by funkykikuchiyo on Aug 17, 2023 23:25:59 GMT -5
Never used the stuff. Might work great.
Door-Ease has a texture somewhere between chapstick and a crayon. If that stuff isn't runny and is safe around wood, I'd say it should be fine.
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